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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress -…
Poodles are People Too
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 452
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face L
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Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pig in Heat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02386, -116.17782 |
| FA: | Randy Vogel and Charles Cole, February 1980 |
| Page Views: | 17,571 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 3, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route.
The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece; higher the difficulty eases until a steeper section is encountered at the top.
- To descend rap off of two bolts in front of two large boulders with two ropes (or one 70m, you'll have a few feet to spare) from nearby or head (climber's) right to a 2 bolt rap anchor atop The Importance of Being Ernest (80' rappel).
- As an alternative there are several ways to scramble/down climb as well.
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