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Routes in Arid Piles - Northwest Face

29 Palms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
39 Slaps, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Edge of Doom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hare Today, Gone Tomorrow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Bunny Quits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Napkin of Shame T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice and Steep and Elbow Deep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outsiders, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Quarter Moon Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, Mike Lechlinski, Vaino Kodas and Alan Nelson, 1981
Page Views: 4,280 total, 24/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 23, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Difficult lieback/jam moves reach the very steep left-facing corner with a seam in the middle. Extremely technical and challenging palming and stemming moves go over a bulge to a lower angle section with a finger sized crack. Near the top the climb steepens before the anchors.

Location

This climb is on the northwest face of the Arid Piles formation. Approach from the northeast end and enter the 29 Palms Corridor. Scrambling over boulders within the corridor leads to the base of the route.

Protection

#00 - #3 TCU's, many small to medium brass, a few medium stoppers and one 1" cam for protection. The crux section is protected by brass. A fixed stopper is at the beginning of the crux section. Bolted anchors with rappel rings are at the top.
michal
Everett WA
 
michal   Everett WA
 
One of the best routes around pure madness Nov 26, 2016
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12
I found this to be a major sandbag at 11d. It's at least as hard if not harder than Warrior Eagle. Warrior Eagle is another classic JT stemming corner which clocks in at 12b. Apr 18, 2016
Ben H  
Not stoked about the fashion in which I made my ascent. Lacked confidence in the small nuts I was placing. Including some micro nuts. Rested on some uninspiring gear a couple times. Was also really bummed when I realized I wasn't going to be able to crimp my way through this one, and had to use some real technique. Definitely some interesting/fun climbing though. Nov 8, 2010
Brad G  
I coward away from the lead on this one. The gear in that corner just seems sooo thin. I wondered if it would even hold a fall. Feb 1, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.11d
C Miller   CA  
  5.11d
Location, high quality moves and good gear make this one of the classic stem routes in the Park. Four stars out of five. Dec 12, 2003
Steven Powers
  5.11d
Steven Powers  
  5.11d
To set a top rope you will need two ropes - you can set an anchor on top of the formation then rap down to the anchors and set up the TR off of the bolted anchor. This is one of my favorite 5.11's I've done in the Park, you just gotta trust those smears, and as Randy implied not a good one to do in the middle of summer as I did. Oct 7, 2003
Hey Vern,I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from this excellent route. I actually found it easier for the grade. It's all about creative stemming and it's a great route to improve your stemming techniques. No finger strenght required.Brian Smith May 30, 2003
Randy  
Vern:

Perhaps climbing this palming and smearing dihedral is a bit harder when it is so damn hot in the Park???? Not to say it isn't hard. May 29, 2003
This climb is, hands down, the most difficult 11d I have climbed in the park to date. May 26, 2003