Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis & Rich Smith, 1981
Page Views: 3,493 total · 18/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 14, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start about 20' left of Cakewalk (5.8) by climbing past a solitary bolt into an arching, left-facing corner. Higher, steep and enjoyable moves lead past another bolt into a thin crack which leads to the top.

A great route which should not be missed if in the area, this climb will leave a favorable impression on you. Three stars out of five.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2.5"

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Photos

Caughtinside tossing out a green alien, moments before it spontaneously combusted.
Caughtinside tossing out a green alien, moments…
 10
SO scenic yo
SO scenic yo
 0
A view from below of the thin steepness. Not much below 5.10 through that section.
A view from below of the thin steepness. Not m…
 0
Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wall. Photo by a random stranger, 1/04.
Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway…
 0
Anacram.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
Anacram. Photo by Blitzo.
 0
"Anacram".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Anacram". Photo by Blitzo.
 0

9 Comments

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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
After quite a tricky but well protected crux the upper crack has a way big feel to it.

Position, exposure, varied technique.

First time's a charm. Jan 7, 2003
Randy
Randy  
An excellent climb; the rock has cleaned up well. Challenging for the grade; I would call it more 5.10c/d.

Jan 28, 2003
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
 
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
 
One of my new favorites. Great variety, interesting moves. Nov 13, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Good route. Two cruxes. First crux is well protected but harder at the second bolt. The second crux is the "mental" one.Towards the top of the crack, I fiddled for 15 minutes trying to get some gear higher than knee level to protect a tough move. Eventually I found a marginal RP in a flare - not the best piece but good enough to bust the move.

Like the other person indicated, this climb leaves an impression on you. Nov 14, 2005
tony grice
  5.10c
tony grice  
  5.10c
Overlooked classic! Bring your captain crush hand for the crux lay back. Nov 13, 2006
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Jumped on this climb on a whim on the way back to the car... wowza. I thought I was gonna take a toss somewhere past the bolt for sure (had to charge pretty far past it to get a stance and gear- pumped!). Really, really good route. As noted, a tad hard at the grade. Be mindful of a hollow flake down low. Jun 17, 2011
Tradiban
 
Tradiban  
 
Pretty tame for 10c. A yellow DMM offset was perfect for the 2nd crux, might be a little less tame without it. Dec 9, 2014
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
Stellar climbing, I'd give it 4 stars except for the loose flakes (including the huge undercling after the initial bolt). Thin and technical and stays at you!

I didn't use anything larger than a 0.75 on the route, and most of it was much smaller than that. A 2 and 3 are useful for the anchor though. Dec 7, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10d
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10d
Hard for 10c especially for the shorter guy like me 5'6. If sig alert is 10b/c this is definitely 2 letter grades harder. crux is definitely easier passing the 2nd bolt if you have some reach on you Feb 28, 2018