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Elevation: 1,335 ft 407 m
GPS: 43.41396, -89.71977
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 67,887 total · 252/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 8, 2002
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Major Mass is located near the top of the Potholes trail to the west of Red Rocks and just to the west of Minor Mass. The formation contains a good range of climbs with good exposure and length (80-100 feet).

The area lends itself to "multi-pitch" climbing (Midwest style), allowing up to four pitches of climbing from the base of the Red Slab to Jungle Gym Tower and the top of Devil's Doorway.

The area could be climbed and explored during any summer weekend without running into more than a handful of people. The quality of the climbs here is on par with those found at the most popular spots in the park.

Getting There Suggest change

To access Major Mass, park at the South Shore parking lot. Take the paved trail north across the railroad tracks until you reach the junction of the Balanced Rock Trail and the Grottos Trail. From here you have two options.

Option 1) Turn left at the junction and hike to the top of the bluff via the Balanced Rock Trail. At the top turn right and follow the Devil's Doorway Trail about 1/4 mile. You will go down a set of about 5 rock steps and to your right you will see a gully with vertical walls on either side (Ramsay's Pinnacle area). Take this fourth-class gully down the west side of the Major Mass. You can walk to the base of the Major Mass, or cut in left onto one of its handful of terraces.

Option 2) Turn right at the junction and walk along the Grottos Trail. Looking up to your left you will see the Devil's Doorway formation. If you're really burly you could cut up through the talus slope from here. If not, continue to the Potholes Trail, a trail of rock steps that skirts the east side of the greater Doorway Rocks formation. About 3/4 up the bluff, about 50 yards below the Red Rocks formation, you can cut west across the boulder field to the base of Minor Mass and continue on until you reach Major Mass (look for the large gully that separates the Major and Minor Mass, and also look for the "Keyhole").

Alternatively, you could hike to the top of the bluff via the Potholes Trail and go around the top of Minor Mass on the Devil's Doorway Trail and find the gully that separates Major and Minor Mass (the top of this gully is near the east end of the Devil's Doorway side trail). Descend this gully with Major Mass on your right.

72 Total Climbs

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Location: 3. Doorway Rocks - Major Mass Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Doorway Rocks - Major Mass

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 52
Kenosis
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
Jungle Gym
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 21
Faith, Hope, and Charity
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 62
Angel's Crack
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
Cedar Tree Wall
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 111
Dippy Diagonal
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Darkest Hour
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Jolly Roger
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Mary Jane
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (…
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Mindless Dribble
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Hammer Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
TM Overhang
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Hammer Master
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 7
Hammer Case
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kenosis Lower Major Mass
 52
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Jungle Gym Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Faith, Hope, and Charity Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 21
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Angel's Crack Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 62
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Cedar Tree Wall Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Dippy Diagonal Lower Major Mass
 111
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Darkest Hour Hammer Wall & The Key…
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jolly Roger Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mary Jane Upper Major Mass & Ju…
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Dippy Diagonal Variation Ri… Lower Major Mass
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mindless Dribble Lower Major Mass
 18
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Hammer Crack Hammer Wall & The Key…
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
TM Overhang Lower Major Mass
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Hammer Master Hammer Wall & The Key…
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Hammer Case Hammer Wall & The Key…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Doorway Rocks - Major Mass »

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