Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,734 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 2, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


70 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dippy Diagonal is a nice hand jam crack located west of the Keyhole below the South Platform. Climb up crack about 3 feet right of the inside corner (Kenosis, rt# 63). The wall gets steeper toward the top of the crack. Either stop at the large ledge or continue up to the top on Kenosis.

Protection

Standard Rack
This right here is a SWEET moderate lead, Gobbles up nuts, & hold Galore.

It's a little off the beaten path but worth the effort to find it. May 20, 2003
A very well protected lead indeed as is Kenosis as well, but I would characterize the crack as more hand size than finger. Dec 12, 2003
Ian Schmit
  5.7
Ian Schmit  
  5.7
Definitely a hand crack. Great stances every few feet to place gear. Protects well with nuts and hexes. Excellent moderate lead. Nov 6, 2006
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.7
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.7
The first time I climbed this route, I led it on-sight and it felt a little stiffer than 5.7. Now after TRing it several times I agree that it's Devil's Lake 5.7. For new leaders, Kenosis 5.4 the inside corner right to the left is a good beginner's lead and you can set up TR and play on Dippy after you top out. Aug 6, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
I just led this on sight tonight. I didn't have my guide book, but it looked like a great line. And it sure was! I agree that it felt a bit harder than 5.7 Aug 20, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I remember this as being pure fun, plain and simple... While in the area check out Hammer Crack too. Step it up just a bit with TM Overhang. Aug 21, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
I was actually headed there for TM overhang, but felt like leading something instead. I can climb 5.10 pretty comfortably, but I haven't lead anything over 5.9 yet. I will get back there for TM overhang for sure. My buddy still wants to do Dippy Diagonal after I told him how good it was. Aug 22, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Pro: great route to use your hexes on. Sep 8, 2008
Sarah K
Boulder, CO
 
Sarah K   Boulder, CO
 
A little tough for a beginner leader. Many places to put a #3 camalot. May 19, 2009
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Good pro, fun, These was rated 5.6 then I 1ST lead it, it's hard for a 5.7 Apr 15, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.7
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.7
its just a shame this crack doesnt continue for more than 25 ' Apr 16, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.7
This route is harder than Jolly Roger though not as exposed- still, an entertaining lead with very good hand jams and protection. May 31, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
We were able to link a three pitch climb starting with Dippy, and ending with Angel Crack. Super fun little alpine adventure with lots of options to explore. Jun 11, 2011
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
I hammered out a stuck #3 C4 the other day on this and it reminded me that I see quite a few people never clipping runners to their cams, just one biner to the cam sling. Do that often and your cam will eventually walk and get stuck.

To the owner of the #3, it's hammered to death but still functional, I think I'm going to send it into BD for strength testing. Oct 1, 2011
Ben Gleason
Durango, CO
 
Ben Gleason   Durango, CO
 
Has to be one of the better hand cracks at the lake. May 18, 2014
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
 
best hand crack at the lake. too short! Aug 12, 2015

More About Dippy Diagonal

Printer-Friendly