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Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on May 8, 2013
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Crack and small overhang to the right of the route "Mindless Dribble". This climb climbs out of gully marked "ACCESS" on on page 149 diagram of CGTDL 3rd Edition on the wall making up the right side as one is decending. Varied and decent protection. There is a neat sqaure block sticking out at the crux (which consists of high stepping up into upper flare with a finger crack at the back).

Location

Climbs the wall below the heavely treed and branched ledge below the route "The Three Kings" Doorway Rocks- Major Mass West.

Protection

Varied and more then adequite. Cams and stoppers.

Photos

James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.5
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.5
I found it convenient to start up Mindless Dribble and traverse into this at the main horizontal. This allowed me to place some high gear in MD and keep my rope mostly out of the loose access gully and thereby not raining rocks down on my partners. We did this as the second pitch of a 3-pitch linkup that included Dippy Diagonal as a first pitch (though I stepped left in Kenosis at the very top to facilitate not having to "move the belay") and Angel's Crack as third pitch. Jun 11, 2018
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
  5.5
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
  5.5
Did this same variant this past weekend and it was super fun going across the horizontal traverse. Good gear all over it I found. Cams in various openings in the horizontals.... Jul 9, 2018

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