Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
|Page Views:||166 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 5, 2002|
|Admins:||Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
Mindless Dribble is located on the large rounded buttress between the Red Slab and the Keyhole on the lower band of the Major Mass. Start by climbing up a steep 10-foot "chimney" onto a ledge. Once above the chimney climb another 10-foot wall using the corner and crack to the left of the corner. From here go slightly left towards a pine tree. Climb up this face using small face holds and a few larger ledges. Above this area you come to a slabby face with more small crimp holds. Climb the slab to a good-sized ledge about 25 feet from the top. Above this ledge there is a small overhung pocket. Traverse right about 10 feet to an easier crack/dihedral. Once above the dihedral you'll be on another ledge. From here either go straight up under a good sized "horn" or move back to the left and follow a crack up around the left side of the horn. The last move, regardless of your final approach, is a tricky mantel onto a block above the horn.
Top rope To set up the TR for this climb hike up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Near the top of the gully (about 20 yards from the top) head west (left) and climb through a small saddle (4th class) and onto the upper-band ledge, a nice wide ledge used to access the upper band of the Major Mass (In Swartling's book this ledge is located above the area labeled "Angel's Traverse"). Continue west a few yards past the saddle, then turn left again to face south. You will see the top of a rounded buttress with lots of shrubs. If you step over a large fallen pine tree you've gone too far. This pine tree is laying down on the buttress you're looking for. Use two good sized trees and a nice crack to build your anchor. The anchor should hang directly south off the buttress. This is a nice long climb, so use a 60 meter rope.