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Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 8, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Start up route #59 in the guide (Hard Times) and at 15 foot mark climb left across face to reach arete and large holds. This traverse is the crux by far and is very tricky and a bit scary (placing the pro requires reaching blindly to the left). Climb up into hanging crack just right of the arete and ascend it using edges or pure fist jamming or a combination of both. Follow the arete above to the top utilizing slopers and strange angled grips along the arete and finally a few right stems onto edges on the right at top. Tops out on funky little isolated summit that is hard to rig a straight forward top anchor on... You need to think about this one and rig accordingly. Getting off this summit requires a little downclimb off the short backside...

Location

Major Mass Dippy Diagonal area. The arete and face to the right of DD and around corner.

Protection

Excellent although tricky to see actual placements made to protect the crux traverse move. You can get great Red Camelot #2 in slot at about waist height of the traverse move. Larger cams to protect the hanging crack (large fist) then everywhere else mid-sized stoppers and/or cams. Smaller cams in the horizontals along the upper arete are nice.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.6 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.6 PG13
What a strange wondering route. I couldn't protect the crux well and instead of going back right to the crack I stayed left of the arete all the way to the top, still 5.6. Oct 1, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Yes on the start. No on the finish. Starts up the corner of Hard Times then traverses leftward over to the arete at about the 15-20foot mark of HT. Then it climbs up either the arete or the crack just right of the arete.
Wicker Man climbs the thin face in the middle of upper face staying off left crack and right corner. Wicker Man starts to the right of DD by climbing the thin steep arete to the right (of DD) then gains the same arete (and rest) position one gets to after the little traverse on King's Corner then it climbs onto the face mentioned above following the thin seam. Wicker Man wanders to take advantage of the hardest thinnest sections of this formation aspect. It is a bit contived in that matter... plus it is a tough route to set up a TR anchor for.. you need to gain the isolated summit first so it may make sense to lead climb either Hard Times or King's Corner first. Jul 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.6 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.6 PG13
Is King's Corner the same start as Hard Times and the same finish as Wicker Man? Jul 14, 2011