Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||105 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Burton Lindquist on Jun 8, 2011|
|Admins:||Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
Start up route #59 in the guide (Hard Times) and at 15 foot mark climb left across face to reach arete and large holds. This traverse is the crux by far and is very tricky and a bit scary (placing the pro requires reaching blindly to the left). Climb up into hanging crack just right of the arete and ascend it using edges or pure fist jamming or a combination of both. Follow the arete above to the top utilizing slopers and strange angled grips along the arete and finally a few right stems onto edges on the right at top. Tops out on funky little isolated summit that is hard to rig a straight forward top anchor on... You need to think about this one and rig accordingly. Getting off this summit requires a little downclimb off the short backside...
Excellent although tricky to see actual placements made to protect the crux traverse move. You can get great Red Camelot #2 in slot at about waist height of the traverse move. Larger cams to protect the hanging crack (large fist) then everywhere else mid-sized stoppers and/or cams. Smaller cams in the horizontals along the upper arete are nice.