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Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: TR
FA: FTR: Remo FL: C. Eggert
Page Views: 413 total, 5/month
Shared By: Remo on Jul 14, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

At roof where Cookie Cutter moves left, go straight up middle of the headwall. Big moves get you over the two roofs with jugs waiting at the top.
Not listed in guidebook.
There was a large block in the middle of the wall, but it broke in my arms and now there are two small, but nice crimps.

Location

Face just right of Cookie Cutter. TM overhang is on your right.

Protection

TR, could be done on lead, but would be desperate.

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.10+ R
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.10+ R
I'll belay you Remo! There are a few more routes here I'd like to do. Your line is great, super fun moves over the roofs, nice eye finding this one. As others have mentioned, specifically for Cookie Cutter, the rock isn't the best but with more traffic it should clean up some. Nov 4, 2016
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Nice Chris! Now I suppose I need to go lead it ;) Nov 4, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.10+ R
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.10+ R
Definite heads up lead, a fall at the crux might leave your partner carrying you down. Glad Matt didn't have to carry me down. I'm sure he is too. :) Nov 3, 2016
Only gear is at my feet in the main pic. Death fall to the slab after that. Must have it wired to lead! Jul 14, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
By desperate do you mean big drops between small gear or "NO" gear?

Remo? You don't know your own strength it seems? Breaking large blocks via you grip into small crimps? Jul 14, 2011
Bouldery moves in the upper half, a fun addition to DL. Jul 14, 2011