Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 8, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb first portion of Dippy Diagonal. At ledge climb just a few feet more of DD then start climbing rightwards and upwards into parallel crack line up into alcove and through roofish thing. Climbing is a full letter grade harder then DD and a full letter grade more tricky as well.
Pro placements a noticably harder to find and place but they are there and good. The moves to get onto the slabish thing at the bottom of the alcove are the crux for sure.

Location

Major Mass Dippy Diagonal face.

Protection

Hand sized cams in the lower section (as per Dippy Diagonal) then the small wires and TCU cams in middle section... more larger cams to top out.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Felt like a 5.9 move pulling above the first horizontal on "The Diptser Direct" to me...there is no feet and gotta pull small sloper in the crack... felt 5.9 but just the one move... Oct 6, 2011
Still 5.8 avoiding the Dippy crack entirely. Oct 1, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
So Ryan? You don't think The Dipster Direct doesn't maybe get a slighty harder grading? Is it still 5.8? Way to go. This one is on my list for fall. Aug 16, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Now, I'll get in there and lead Dippy Diagonal Double Direct. Nice work, Strong. We gotta climb soon before you fools head off to the tower and before we fools head out to VEGAS. Aug 15, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
I got the send, onsight. good route, nice eye Burt! Felt he was spot on with the grade, and with the pro description. Aug 15, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
It will go direct but with less protection options and even harder climbing. Jun 13, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Probably not Rhoads. I'm out of commission for a while with a bum elbow... but if the notion strikes me to do something to spite you, I'll be on it. Keep me posted. Jun 8, 2011
It is I have checked it out but didn't lead it. The question is, can you get to it before I do? Jun 8, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Do you think it's possible to stay out of Dippy Diagonal entirely even at the start? Just start on faint crack system to the right of DD to begin and finish per The Dipster. Jun 8, 2011