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Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 257 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Apr 16, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

TM Overhang is located on the face just to the west of Red Slab (#73). From the slab below the climb (belayer best stand below the slab), climb the crack below the roof by either jamming or using a layback. Once to the roof reach high for holds to get over the crux. Climb easier rock to the top, staying on the left face is a bit harder than going up the corner.  Given 5.9+ in the blue bible, settling out at 5.10a or b depending how you finish.  

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Rack with small stoppers and cams.  From below the roof you can place a #3 C4 to protect the crux.  One of the better protected 10's at DL.  TR tree is back pretty far so bring long webbing.  
On lead a #3 Camalot with a long draw can be placed above the roof to give great protection for pulling through those moves. May 28, 2003
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
Good route, a little on the short side, and much easier than other 10's at the lake. Aug 21, 2011
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
This was one of my first leads at the Lake some 30+ years ago. Wasn't this rated F8 in the old guidebook? I came off reaching for the jug pocket over lip. Kind of a long reach. I remember watching my #7 Chouinard stopper rip out of the lower crack as I flew past. Ended up cratering onto the base slab on my hands and knees. Didn't get hurt and went back up and cruised it on post-crater adrenaline. If I'd have known it was more like 10a, probably never would have tried it. #DLFA Mar 18, 2014
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9+
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9+
This is a great lead! Great gear and fun movement. A bit on the short side, but worth doing if you in the area. Jul 11, 2014

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