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Routes in Lower Major Mass

Archeopteryx T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Archway Cookie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Fight T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cat Walk T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Congestion Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Cookie Cutter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earnings Summary T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Goodbye Youth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Innocence T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kenosis T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
King's Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loco Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mental Block TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Microwave Dinner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mindless Dribble TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puffs Plus T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sure Shot TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
TM Overhang T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Michigan T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Wicker Man T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 14, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Innocence is located on the east face of the Red Slab Buttress between Congestion Chimney and Puffs Plus. Climb up the face just right of the corner using nice face features. After a few moves head right onto a less-steep slab of rock.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Tradiban
  5.4
Tradiban  
  5.4
Yea, starting just right of the arete and taking the natural line isn't what's described in Sven's book, maybe not 5.4 but it eases off very quickly after 15ft. Sep 26, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Three years later ... someone was just reminding me that my belay at the top was a sling wrapped around a swaying tree limb.

What I remember at this point is 5.7ish moves, and having to work for one of the pieces in the initial steep section. The crack is what attracted me to that piece of rock. I doubt I led a 5.4 there. It's possible I just missed something, or its possible I was imposing route rules on myself. There are tons of contrived routes in Swartling & Mayer. Sep 26, 2011
Tradiban
  5.4
Tradiban  
  5.4
Starts on jugs, then moves right onto the face ignoring good jugs on the left to finish. Pretty much just an alternative start to Puffs Plus.

Could be a hard bouldering start direct if you start in the middle of then face.

Doug, I think you did the 5.4 version of the climb. Per Sven, you traverse right at 15ft, then up the center of the face to make it 5.7 but there's no gear after starting the traverse. Sep 24, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The crux is short, but the position of the climb is nice. Take gear to 2 inches. There is a fixed pin after this route joins "Red Slab." Belay from limbs of the pine tree at the top. Sep 9, 2008