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Routes in Hammer Wall & The Keyhole

Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Darkest Hour T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hammer Case T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hammer Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hammer Crack Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hammer Master T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Insect Parts T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Keyhole Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Meat Hammer TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nonconformist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Prosperity TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stettner's Overhang T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunken Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Top Shelf TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,576 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Hammer Crack is located on the easternmost wall of the Major Mass. An early crux right off the ground leads to much easier and enjoyable climbing. You can skip the crux by starting just to the right and climbing left into the crack a bit higher.

Protection

Medium stoppers and a couple larger cams for lead. For Top Rope, head up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. About 20 yards from the top of the gully cut left (west) through a small "saddle" and onto the upper band ledge. In Swartling's book look at diagram 33E on page 141. After passing through the "saddle" you will be standing right on the word "Access" near the center of the page. From here head south along the west side of a small rock band and onto a point (on the book topo, walk from the word "Access" to the word "Keyhole". Hang your top rope anchor off the point so it falls to the left (northeast) of a small pine tree growing out of the rock.
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8+
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8+
The rap ring on the tree has eventually disappeared. Oct 6, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
Good to hear my ring is doing well :) I put it up there last summer. There just isn't another good way down. Jul 20, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Yes it is John. Big fat aluminum rolled and pretty much brand new looking. Jul 20, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
Is that rap ring still around the tree at the end? Jul 20, 2010
Alex Andrews
  5.8
Alex Andrews  
  5.8
Short crux at the start, FUN, if you do it right, its 5.8 when I did, I was a 5.8 climber, not able to climb 5.9s like upper D, Jul 9, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9+
Great climb. Hard opening moves. But great moves non the less. Aug 17, 2009
Ian Schmit
  5.8
Ian Schmit  
  5.8
Crux is right off the ground. Eases back to 5.6 handcrack in the upper section. Nov 6, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
hammercase is cool,5.11 ,think old prunes lead it. Mar 25, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.8
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.8
Some would call Hammer Crack a 5.8. Apr 11, 2002