Type: Trad
FA: Rich Bechler
Page Views: 1,190 total · 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Hammer Case is a showcase line on a beautiful, secluded little wall and is also a readily doable 5.12- lead for the park if you are feeling fit. Dave Groth turned me onto this line in the mid 90's and I was instantly taken with it, and lead it in short order. This line was on his short list of protectable 5.12’s in the park.

Find a nice starting hold, grab it, and climb up and left along a sweeping seam/crack. Great moves, just enough gear, and very little traffic.

Location

Major Mass, left of Hammer Crack.

Protection

I remember a couple of nuts somewhere in the middle. Particulary a #6 that was a weird placement. See comments below.

Photos

Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
This thing is thin! Good moves though. Horrible rope stretch and penduluming made this impossible to work though without starting over from the very beginning every time, so no send for now. Jul 10, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
This route was surprisingly fun. Hard start, but once you establish in the upper crack it's over. Jul 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Big holds with tricky powerful moves. After the crux move right to finish on Meat Hammer for more length, 5.10 for that section. Sep 24, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
I tamed this down to PG-13 by placing a #3 Master Cam left of the start and a #3 offset in the crux. Biffing the crux would put you on the ground but not too hard. Oct 9, 2011
Jake Lescher
  5.12a
Jake Lescher  
  5.12a
Highly recommend finishing up Meat Hammer. Makes for a far more enjoyable extended finish and protects well. Jun 24, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a PG13
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12a PG13
Nice work guys! Cool to see ya on the sharp end. It's been twenty years already for me, does this route deserve a PG-13? This line would get climbed all the time if it were in a more popular area. Jun 24, 2017
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.12a PG13
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  5.12a PG13
Agree JJ this is an excellent climb and more people should check it out. It wasn't on my radar until I saw the photo of Kris G. on it in Jay's new guidebook. Regarding PG13, the gear is spaced out and thin, but a fall would most likely not result in serious injury -- isn't this the definition of PG13? Our crux piece was a #4 BD microstopper. Jun 30, 2017