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Routes in Hammer Wall & The Keyhole

Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Darkest Hour T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hammer Case T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hammer Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hammer Crack Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hammer Master T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Insect Parts T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Keyhole Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Meat Hammer TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nonconformist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Prosperity TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stettner's Overhang T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunken Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Top Shelf TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Rich Bechler
Page Views: 1,110 total, 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Hammer Case is a showcase line on a beautiful, secluded little wall and is also a readily doable 5.12- lead for the park if you are feeling fit. Dave Groth turned me onto this line in the mid 90's and I was instantly taken with it, and lead it in short order. This line was on his short list of gear friendly 5.12s in the park.

Find a nice starting hold, grab it, and climb up and left along a sweeping seam/crack. Great moves, just enough gear, and very little traffic.

Location

Major Mass, left of Hammer Crack.

Protection

I remember a couple of nuts somewhere in the middle. Particulary a #6 that was a weird placement.
I think you'd be hard pressed to generate that in a ten foot fall. Would need very little rope out to minimize stretch plus a very static belay. If that were the case I think we'd hear about a lot more wires snapping (mid sized nuts almost always have "6kn cable"). I agree more climbing Jun 30, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.12a
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.12a
One of these esoteric threads on here said it's not unusual to generate 5kn in a 10 foot fall. Less talk more climbing. It's as safe as most DL leads. Bring a pad if you're inclined. Jun 30, 2017
6 KN? Marginal? How big are you these days???? Jun 30, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.12a
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.12a
Agree JJ this is an excellent climb and more people should check it out. It wasn't on my radar until I saw the photo of Kris G. on it in Jay's new guidebook. Regarding PG13, the gear is spaced out and thin, but a fall would most likely not result in serious injury -- isn't this the definition of PG13? Our crux piece was a #4 BD microstopper rated to 6kn (a bit marginal?). PG13? G? R? YMMV, but I'd agree with Rhoads and say PG13. Jun 30, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Nice work guys! Cool to see ya on the sharp end. It's been twenty years already for me, does this route deserve a PG-13? This line would get climbed all the time if it were in a more popular area. Jun 24, 2017
Jake Lescher
  5.12a
Jake Lescher  
  5.12a
Highly recommend finishing up Meat Hammer. Makes for a far more enjoyable extended finish and protects well. Jun 24, 2017
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
I tamed this down to PG-13 by placing a #3 Master Cam left of the start and a #3 offset in the crux. Biffing the crux would put you on the ground but not too hard. Oct 9, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Big holds with tricky powerful moves. After the crux move right to finish on Meat Hammer for more length, 5.10 for that section. Sep 24, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a
This route was surprisingly fun. Hard start, but once you establish in the upper crack it's over. Jul 14, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
This thing is thin! Good moves though. Horrible rope stretch and penduluming made this impossible to work though without starting over from the very beginning every time, so no send for now. Jul 10, 2011