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Routes in Hammer Wall & The Keyhole

Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Darkest Hour T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hammer Case T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hammer Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hammer Crack Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hammer Master T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hard Times T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Insect Parts T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Keyhole Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Meat Hammer TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nonconformist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Prosperity TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stettner's Overhang T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunken Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Top Shelf TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Rich Bechler
Page Views: 581 total, 6/month
Shared By: Alex Andrews on Jul 9, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Starts on Hammer Case, for a few feet then traverse left about 3 to 4ft, to thin crack,

Location

Hammer Wall

Protection

think its been lead, small gear,

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11d R
Tradiban  
  5.11d R
The lead is pretty hairy. There's a bomber C4 #1 in the horizontal then placing a micro cam (#00 Metolious) at full extension blindly in a tricky slot. I also got a #1 Ballnut for piece of mind in between those two pieces and used double ropes in case the micro cam blew.

For shorter folk it might take pulling the crux before being able to place the micro cam, or a lock off on crimps. Oct 1, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11d R
Tradiban  
  5.11d R
I believe this traverses on the hand rail to the corner, pulls up, then back right on crimps? It seems going directly up the face without the left corner would be very hard.

Pro is good in the hand rail 12ft up then a small cam in a horizontal seam a bit higher, ground fall potential is very high if one falls while trying to place the micro cam. I will have to wire it better to lead it. Aug 11, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11c/d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11c/d
This is a fun little route and definitely easier than it's neighbors to the right. The lead would be a tricky one. The gear is ok, but run-out, and leaves little room for error. Aug 10, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
I've wanted to lead this. The spots for gear look slightly flaring and not really good until about 20 feet up? Jul 14, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Yes- agreed.. I have allways started Hammer Master from the left base of the wall. Just around the corner to the right of Stettne's Overhang corner. This climb has gear and is leadable... just a little sketchy at the start... first 20 feet. Jul 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11d R
Tradiban  
  5.11d R
Nope no lead yet. BTW, I think the proper way to start this is left of the jug start to Hammer Case and Meat Hammer. Jul 14, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nick Rhoads? Have you led Hammer Master yet? Just wondering.. Jul 14, 2011