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Routes in Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower

Angel's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cannabis Sativa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cedar Tree Wall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corner Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner Crack Face T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crypt Variation, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crypt, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dances with FIBs T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Line T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Faith, Hope, and Charity T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecision T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jolly Roger T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jungle Gym East Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mary Jane T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosemary's Baby T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Kings T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.R T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 754 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jan 25, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Mary Jane is located in the same area as the Jolly Roger and Angel's Crack. The climb is 50 feet of vertical, well sustained 5.7 climbing with the 5.8 crux at the top. Climb up using horizontal cracks and ledges, avoiding the corner to the right. Near the top you will find a ledge to stand on and above it you will see a vertical crack. To finish the climb, reach up with both hands and finger jam in this crack while stepping up with a smear on the smooth rock at knee level. It's a really fun crux if you've got the reach.

To get to the top of Mary Jane, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead and an outcropping to the right (west). Mary Jane faces south off the end of the western outcropping.

To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse".Scramble west about 150 feet until you get to the base of the climb. For reference, you will see some dead brush and a large, flat-topped boulder to your immediate left (to the south of the wall). The climb is just past this boulder.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.8
Wasp nest in crack 1/3 of the way up on the right corner. Tread lightly. Aug 28, 2016
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
Yeah, a little runout in the beginning. I placed a shitty .3 camalot about 20 feet up for piece of mind. Purely a physiological placement. However the climbing is pretty secure and there is bomber gear above. Most of the climb is in the 5.6 range until the crux at the top, then WHAM things get serious for a couple moves! Great route! Aug 21, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I like the movement all the way up Mary Jane. It has less then obvious hold arrangement in parts... you gotta pull up, set your feet high and then reach around for what works and then you discover holds that are just in the right direction and positive.... just not easily visible. The top move is balancy and a bit insecure but great pro in that little exit crack.
Jul 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8 R
Tradiban  
  5.8 R
I got run-out on this but a micro cam (that I didn't have) might have fixed that. It's pretty ho-hum until the crux at the top which is a few cool moves with good gear. Bring a blue Master Cam for the very top crux. Jul 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8 R
Tradiban  
  5.8 R
Chicago? A 5.8 and "least sandbagged in the park"? Are you trying to kill someone Andy?!!?!? Chicago has been described as an early "hero climb". I respectively disagree! Harrumph! Jun 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Jolly Roger is good but if you're looking for the least sandbagged 5.8 in the Park look no further than Chicago. A great lead. Jun 29, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
This climb is good but i personally would recommend jolly roger, over this 5.8. Jun 3, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Even though the author clearly says, "avoid use of corner" the beta photo included with the route description defiantly says otherwise. For what it's worth the corner does offer decent footing while cruising up to the crux but will afford the climber nothing worthwhile in the crux. This is, in my opinion, the best route within this small group of climbs. May 30, 2011