Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,239 total · 21/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 14, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


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Description

An airy route with an adventurous feel, ending on a pinnacle separated from the base of Devils Doorway. The climb is usually done as a single pitch, but can be linked with lower parts of Major Mass to form two to three pitches.

The main pitch: Start on the ledge left of "Cedar Tree Wall." At the southwest toe of the Tower, work up onto an apron with a big, beefy handcrack through it, below the prominent alcove.

There is an old ring piton in the wall on the right of the alcove - skip it or you'll just create rope drag. Instead, protect below the overhang (extend your sling!) and find some way to launch up onto the small ledge up and left. Some folks do the "beached whale" move, others do a layback, still others try to mantel. Burly and hard to make this look graceful.

Beyond the mantel, continue up the wandering cracks passing a bulge (and another old piton, probably also best skipped in favor of your own gear). At the top, build an anchor with hand-sized gear or thin finger-sized gear.

To get off, you may want a belay the first time you reach this point!

As a multi-pitch link-up: start down below Seventh Buttress, and do one of the routes down there as an approach. You have lots of options.

Protection

Standard rack through 3 inches.

Location

As a single pitch, this route is usually approached along the base of the Upper Band. Wind around past "Three Kings," under the Doorway and "Cedar Tree Wall," and along the same ledge system until you turn the corner below Jungle Gym Tower.

As a multi-pitch route, walk north along the base of the Lower Band until you reach Seventh Buttress, and climb any of the routes there as an approach.

Photos