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Routes in Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower

Angel's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cannabis Sativa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cedar Tree Wall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corner Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner Crack Face T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crypt Variation, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crypt, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dances with FIBs T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Line T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Faith, Hope, and Charity T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecision T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jolly Roger T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jungle Gym East Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mary Jane T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosemary's Baby T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Kings T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.R T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,948 total · 20/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 14, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

An airy route with an adventurous feel, ending on a pinnacle separated from the base of Devils Doorway. The climb is usually done as a single pitch, but can be linked with lower parts of Major Mass to form two to three pitches.

The main pitch: Start on the ledge left of "Cedar Tree Wall." At the southwest toe of the Tower, work up onto an apron with a big, beefy handcrack through it, below the prominent alcove.

There is an old ring piton in the wall on the right of the alcove - skip it or you'll just create rope drag. Instead, protect below the overhang (extend your sling!) and find some way to launch up onto the small ledge up and left. Some folks do the "beached whale" move, others do a layback, still others try to mantel. Burly and hard to make this look graceful.

Beyond the mantel, continue up the wandering cracks passing a bulge (and another old piton, probably also best skipped in favor of your own gear). At the top, build an anchor with hand-sized gear or thin finger-sized gear.

To get off, you may want a belay the first time you reach this point!

As a multi-pitch link-up: start down below Seventh Buttress, and do one of the routes down there as an approach. You have lots of options.

Protection

Standard rack through 3 inches.

Location

As a single pitch, this route is usually approached along the base of the Upper Band. Wind around past "Three Kings," under the Doorway and "Cedar Tree Wall," and along the same ledge system until you turn the corner below Jungle Gym Tower.

As a multi-pitch route, walk north along the base of the Lower Band until you reach Seventh Buttress, and climb any of the routes there as an approach.
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
 
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
 
After the mantle, which can be protected by placing a piece in the crack that holds the old rusty pin, be careful of the large loose blocks above as you proceed to the top. Heading out onto the East Face route from beneath the big roof will avoid the loose stuff, but it's definitely not as satisfying as making the strenuous and exposed mantle move on the regular route. This is one of the best multi-pitch climbs at the lake. Aug 6, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Fun link-ups with great climbing. Jun 11, 2011
Tradiban
  5.4
Tradiban  
  5.4
I found this climb to be overrated. We did no Rest for the Wicked for the middle pitch, it does take some micro pro for gear.

The final Jungle Gym tower can start a few different ways and has a few good moves but nothing special. I think nubes will have a tough time pulling the layback/mantle crux. Jul 25, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Such a great, airy position! Aug 5, 2013
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Ok, I'm a bit confused about the pitch beta on this one. I get that you can link it with Seventh buttress down below to make it 3 pitches, or that you can do the main climb as one pitch, but where is the belay if you're splitting the main climb up into 2 pitches? I'm speculating that you could belay from the small ledge after the mantle, or the tree... May 7, 2016
I couldn't figure it out either. I kept waiting for it to feel like the "right" spot, and before I knew it, I was at the top. Thinking back, maybe the slabby ledge right under the roof would make for a decent belay? May 14, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
As a link-up, you do two pitches below the main climb (the Jungle Gym tower). I've never seen anyone break the upper part into two pitches, although I suppose you could if you were really determined. May 14, 2016
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Hmm...perhaps this should be listed as 1 pitch then, as the description is for the main climb up the tower, right? Or, do people set up a belay on the ledge after the mantle? Jun 9, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
I've cleaned up the description a little (I took over this page from the original submitter). Jun 9, 2016

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