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Routes in Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower

Angel's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cannabis Sativa T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cedar Tree Wall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corner Crack T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Corner Crack Face T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crypt Variation, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crypt, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dances with FIBs T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Line T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Faith, Hope, and Charity T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecision T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jolly Roger T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jungle Gym East Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mary Jane T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosemary's Baby T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Kings T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.R T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,050 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jan 25, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The Jolly Roger is a fun climb with a great crack system. Start the climb by surmounting a 5 foot slab. Once on top of the slab climb the flat face with a series of cracks in it. The bottom of the face has a slight overhang, but it becomes vertical and then less than vertical as you climb higher. Use some fist jams and finger moves to get up this crack. The crux is near the middle of the climb in a smooth blank niche that requires a less-than-sure foot smear.

To get to the top of the Jolly Roger, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead. The Jolly Roger faces southwest off the end of this outcropping.

To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse". Scramble west about 100 feet until you get to the base of the climb.

Protection

Standard Rack
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
 
I think the gear, position and moves of this route are excellent. You even get an audience if your into that sort of thing. Aug 25, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8
Decent climbing in a cool position, with tricky, but sufficient pro. Mar 16, 2015
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
This is one of the best protected climbs at the lake and with absolutely classic moves. Aug 5, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
one of the most exposed climbs at the lake Apr 16, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8
Great lead. Gear from 1/4" to 2". I think the crux is at the bottom, myself. Sep 8, 2008
wayniak  
This is a classic Devil's Lake route. Fun, steep, exposure, and good pro to boot. May 3, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
My directions for getting to this climb are a little off in the route description. Instead of heading right through the first saddle while descending the gully, you should look for the third saddle. This will take you towards a pine tree with a horizontal dead branch that sticks out about 4 feet to the left. Duck under this branch and turn slightly right after passing it. This will lead you to Jolly Roger, Angel's Crack, Cedar Tree Wall, Mary Jane, Split Decision, Indecision, etc. Sep 20, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
There was a great picture of this route in Rock and Ice a few years back. Apr 29, 2002
One of my favorite leads for the grade at Devil's Lake. Fun climibng with really good exposure and lots of gear. Apr 24, 2002