Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Emerald City

Big Toe Arete V0+ 4+ PG13
Black Magic Arete V0+ 4+
Callandor V4-5 6B+
Constellation V0+ 4+
Dangatang V3-4 6A+
Diamond In The Rough S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Father's Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fictitious Egg, The V0+ 4+
Flying Monkeys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollow Threat V4 6B
In The Middle V0+ 4+
Let the Wookie Win V1 5
Lolliop Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mandarin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Sexy Cranberry V0+ 4+
No Place Like Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruby Slippers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saint George V3 6A
Sharp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Shelf Life V0+ 4+
Shining, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skittles V0 4
TNT T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toto V0- 4-
Watto (SDS) V0 4
Whiteout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wolverine V1 5
Yellow Brick Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984
Page Views: 4,253 total, 31/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


88 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.

Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. Rappel twice to get down.

This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!

Location

From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.

Protection

Standard rock, you don't need much smaller gear, mostly tight hands to fist sized.
If anybody lost/left gear at the base of the route on April 30th, contact me. my group left around 5 o clock and there were a pair of scarpa shoes size 11 mens, a grey two ogres chalk bag with M. books written on it and a newer size small black diamond harness. Also you might have my chalk bag, its a metioulous colorful bag. May 2, 2017
Jareddye
Lexington, KY
Jareddye   Lexington, KY
The route can easily be combined into one pitch if you start directly climbing the bolts (5.7). Otherwise the crack system to the left can be soloed to the ledge (5.4). The dihedral is the money pitch, 5 stars if it were longer. A 70m makes it to the ground with just feet to spare. Nov 3, 2016
MasterBeta .  
 
Pretty mellow for an 8. Could have probably combined pitches. great view from the top. well worth doing if you're in the area Jul 17, 2016
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
We set this on TR with a 70 meter rope (for sure a mistake) there is horrendous rope drag and definitely made the belayer's job a pain. Great climbing and a decent route for a new trad leader looking to progress. Climbing is separated by great rests to place gear. May 16, 2016
if you start at the original start in the crack to the left of the tree it makes the first pitch pretty much a walk up the flake.(5.4) super awesome warmup before you follow the crack. make sure to go left when the crack gets skinny! plenty of good trees to rap off of if you crawl through the bushes above the anchors and admire the view. made getting to the second pitch with a 60m much eaiser using a tree directly above the crack. Apr 19, 2016
mzielin
 
mzielin  
 
A single 60m rope will reach the ground from the 2nd pitch anchors with about 10ft to spare. Anchors look new and in excellent condition as of 3/26/16. Mar 28, 2016
Climbed this two days before thanksgiving as a night climb. Didn't go out onto the face and followed the right trending crack system all the way up to a tree and rapped to the ground. Really heady! Would definitely like ot do it again during the day. Jan 30, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
a single 70m makes it to the ground easily from the upper anchors- we rapped off right, i suspect a single 60m would get you very close, if not down all the way. worth checking, as the bolts at the top of the first pitch are in a terrible location for the pull.

also, the gods of re-bolting in the red should consider replacing the Metolius Rap hangers on this route with real hardware, and moving the first pitch anchors up about 6'. Oct 16, 2012