Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984
Page Views: 9,947 total · 46/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.

Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. A single rappel with a 60m will get you to the ground with a little rope to spare, or you can rappel to the first pitch anchors and reset for a final ~10m rappel. 

This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!

Location Suggest change

From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rock, you don't need much smaller gear, mostly tight hands to fist sized.