Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.75195, -83.66364 |
| FA: | John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 10,664 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience or climb the bolted direct start (Nerds).
Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to a bolted anchor. A single rappel with a 60m rope will get you to the ground with a little rope to spare, or you can rappel to the first pitch anchors and reset for a final ~10m rappel.
Alternatively, for a slightly spicier finish, follow the right hand ending variation via a crack system that climbs more or less horizontal, ending on a large ledge with a tree and a bolted anchor located on on the far right side of the ledge. This will put you above "The Man Behind the Curtain." A single 30 or 35m? rappel gets you back to the ground.
This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!
Location
From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.



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