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Routes in Turk's Head

A Point of Balance T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Belly Flop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Slime, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turk's Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Turk's Head Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turks Tooth T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Zor the Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Description

The Turk's Head area includes Turk's Head, Turk's Tooth, Turk's Head Ridge, and the area of jumbled rocks immediately east of Turk's Head. The climbs here are quite good and are much less busy than the Cleo Amphitheater. Turk's Head Ridge is an excellent place to practice your multipitch climbing.

Getting There

Ascend the West Bluff Trail from the south. When you get to the Cleo Amphitheater continue northeast on an unmarked trail 200 feet. Descend a gully on the northeast side of Turk's Head. Alternatively, you can descend into the Cleo Amphitheater and walk northeast along the base of the rock wall past Wiessner Wall.

To access Turk's Head Ridge walk along the lakeshore on the Cottage road. Continue about 300 feet past the cottages, then start up the bluff through the woods until you see a long ridge of rock.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turk's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 6
Turks Tooth
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Turk's Head Ridge
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
A Point of Balance
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
The Green Slime
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Turks Tooth
 6
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
Turk's Head Ridge
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 7 pitches
A Point of Balance
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Green Slime
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
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