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Routes in Turk's Head

A Point of Balance T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Belly Flop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Slime, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turk's Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Turk's Head Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turks Tooth T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Zor the Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 2,391 total · 19/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Nice 5.10 splitter crack that runs up the middle of just off vertical green colored face. Lots of green colored lichens either side of the crack but doesn't effect the climbing one bit. Crux is right at mid-point where crack shoots straight up and becomes smaller (small fingers) and slightly flaring. There is a nice face hold just left of the crack edge that helps to reach past the flared portion and to reach a great right hand ring finger lock with a just barely usable opposing thumb push (makes the lock a bit more solid). There are two possible finishes- one tops out on ledge to left at top, the other climbs through steep crack and broken rock to higher ledge over to right. The right hand finish makes the climb longer and more fun.


Located on steep face down below western exposure of Turks Tooth


Except for the first 10-12 feet (pro is smaller and more marginal here) the whole climb protects beautifully and bomber with wired stoppers, tricams, and TCUs or cams (all in small to large finger size).
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Definitely felt like 10c on the sharp end! This route is fantastic- I can't believe the consistency of the moves and the finger locks! Good pro, good moves... awesome route. May 7, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Thought it was definitely 10c, great climb! Oct 4, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I agree the grade is maybe only 510b. The climb seems a bit easier then other 10c's in the park and the fact you don't have to fiddle for gear...plug n go. Oct 1, 2010
Right, for sure. Didn't even consider taking the easy way ;) Oct 1, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Which finish did you do rhoads? Right or left? Oct 1, 2010
Money pitch for the area! Soaks gear up and includes interesting finger locks.

An easier approach is to get to Cleo's Needle, then over to Wiessner Wall and Turks Tooth, down scramble a few feet from the route "Point of Balance" (great climb BTW) to an out cropping, set TR there. Sep 30, 2010
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
Another way to locate this is by climbing Turks Head Ridge - this is right around the corner on P5, the 40 foot inside corner. Goes to show that you can do Turks Head Ridge at a more committing grade. Sep 29, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Another "only at the Lake" - a finger crack that is very technical, balance-y, and sequence-y, in that Devils Lake way. Got it on my first try ... but then blew the sequence when I went back for a second lap! May 4, 2009