Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turk's Head

A Point of Balance T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Belly Flop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Slime, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turk's Head T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Turk's Head Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turks Tooth T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Zor the Mantle T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: ??????
Page Views: 136 total, 2/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Nov 12, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is a variation of the 4th pitch of the Turk's Head Ridge route on the north side of that particular buttress. The climb takles a very nice crack on this steep exposure up into a niche then out of the niche exiting right. There is a unique lie back section above where the crack is a bit too small for the average sized hand to jam that takes you up to where the crack ends and the climber is forced to climb left up onto a ledge via a very brutish mantle move (no feet). Above the ledge the difficulty eases way off but the fun factor stays high with neat moves up steep smooth slab but good holds on the rib over and left. Great route I think!

Location

4th pitch variation of the route "Turk's Head Ridge" on the north exposure of this buttress. The buttress bottom is about level with the base of the formation "Chair Buttress" over to the left.

Protection

Take extra cams in the size of BD Camelots .75 to 2 to sew this up.... especially the BD Red. There is a fixed piton at 1/2 height that looks OK (has a slight downward angle but it's a big angle piton) and a fixed cam just above that looks still OK. The mantle move is protected with the smallest TCU or 4Cam (OO) or Zero in the horizontal at the back of the ledge.. you can get in a couple and both deep. It's quite the exercise to hold on and place em though...

Photos

Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
  5.9+
Adam J. Clark   Mill Creek, WA
  5.9+
Did the ridge yesterday and quite a few climbs on the east bluff, this climb and upper diagonal were by far my favorites. Jul 24, 2013
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
Good route. I agree with Tony if it wasn't so hidden it would be more classic. Sustained hard climbing from start to finish. Appropriately named. Felt about the same as Breakfast of Champions in terms of difficulty , but I think 9+ is a sandbag. May 5, 2013
Tony Brengosz
  5.9+
Tony Brengosz  
  5.9+
That ledge offers no relief until you're standing on it! Nov 14, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
I am curious about the story behind the stuck cam? It doesn't appear to have the usual hammered look of repeated attempts to retrieve it. Also a testament to the isolated location of this route. Many climbers I talk to that frequent DL alot say they have never done "Turk's Head Ridge". That light rain had to make that mantle move fairly interesting too! Nov 13, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.9+
Tony Brengosz  
  5.9+
I climbed this in a light rain last spring, which made the liebacks above the pin pretty exciting. If this weren't stranded in the middle of the west bluff, I think it would be a classic. Nov 13, 2012