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Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park) Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park)

Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 95 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 95

Top Rope 0 / 0 / 70 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 70

Elevation:	796 ft
GPS:	42.75784, -84.75339 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	227,362 total · 1,177/month
Shared By:	Chris Zuelch on Mar 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	glclimber Suckow, John Miller Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Sunny sandstone top roping and bouldering crag in the lower peninsula of Michigan right on the Grand River. The cliff is 40 feet tall and offers very bouldery, challenging climbs and problems.

The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day with the majority of wind blocked as well. While the rock quality is pretty good on established classics, other areas can be quite chossy, so be careful.

Unique Rules to Grand Ledge:

(1) No lead climbing.

(2) Must place carpet below your anchors to protect cliff from erosion. You will see how soft the rock is and all the marking from webbing and rope.

(3) No Rappelling.

(4) No alcohol.

(5) No top roping over the Ballerina Bulge or west of the signs near the overlook.

Classic climbs/problems include:

Chips: 5.7

Black Buttress: 5.9

Doug's Roof: 5.10

Rocket Man: 5:10

V3 Despondency

V3 The Trick

V5 Ballerina

V7 Enigma

Getting there and Amenities

Find Grand Ledge, Michigan (use Map Quest or Google). Then head through downtown along Bridge St. Once you cross the bridge, hang a left on the first street which is Front Street. You will drive though a subdivision until you dead end at dirt parking lot for Oak Park. The approach to the cliff is obvious; simply hike down towards the river via trails that take you down to where the cliff breaks down on both sides.

Toads is located at 223 North Bridge Street, literally just a few blocks down from Oak Park. They carry equipment and have a great menu as well.

165 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V1 5 29 ● Highball aka Pocket Problem Boulder Bouldering
V3 6A 4 ● Despondency Boulder Bouldering
V5 6C 5 ● Ballerina Boulder Bouldering
V7 7A+ 9 ● Enigma Boulder Bouldering
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 45 ● Mossy Gully TR Top Rope
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 69 ● Potato Chips TR Top Rope
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 34 ● Peek-a-boo TR Top Rope
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 43 ● Brachiator TR Top Rope
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 49 ● Black Buttress TR Top Rope
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 53 ● Rocket Man TR Top Rope
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 87 ● Doug's Roof TR Top Rope
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 32 ● Ludwig's Dude TR Top Rope
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 20 ● Intimidator TR Top Rope
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 13 ● Despondecy TR Top Rope
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 12 ● Ragged Edge TR Top Rope