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Elevation: 796 ft 243 m
GPS: 42.75784, -84.75339
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 231,451 total · 1,097/month
Shared By: Chris Zuelch on Mar 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins: glclimber 21, John Miller

Description Suggest change

Sunny sandstone top roping and bouldering crag in the lower peninsula of Michigan right on the Grand River. The cliff is 40 feet tall and offers very bouldery, challenging climbs and problems.The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day with the majority of wind blocked as well.  While the rock quality is pretty good on established classics, other areas can be quite chossy, so be careful.

When the weather is nice, evenings and weekends will be busy, and many ropes will be hung.  Typically, ropes and areas are shared spaces, but it is still essential to check the anchor build up top before climbing.  This is a great way to start climbing at the park, joining several locals who have many routes already set and can point a new climber in the right direction.  There is no guiding within the park, but all the skills required are fairly basic and can be learned quickly with some application and someone that knows what they are doing.  

Mountain Project has divided Oak Park into Bouldering and Top Roping sections for ease of use.  Within these style specific styles, you can find much more information including top rope hangs, projects, smaller area guides in the menu lower on the page and it is still being added to.  The intended goal of this site is to document as much history as possible and give the user the best guide possible to climb at Oak Park.  Suggestions are always welcome.

Typically, top ropes are anchored around one of the large trees at the cliff side.  Webbing should always go to the base of the tree minimizing harm to the tree and creating a safer anchor for climbing.  Carabiners should be hung over the lip and somewhere they are dangling to avoid rope drag on the rock.  Lastly, carpeting or some material should be under the webbing on the edge of cliff to prevent damage from potential movement of the webbing used to build the anchors.  Redundant system throughout the anchor and opposing and locking biners for the rope to go through are standard within Oak Park.

Unique Rules to Grand Ledge:

(1) No lead climbing.

(2) Guiding at Oak Park is done by permit only through the City of Grand Ledge.

(3) Must place carpet below your anchors to protect cliff from erosion. You will see how soft the rock is and all the marking from webbing and rope.

(4) No Rappelling.

(5) No alcohol. 

(6) No top roping over the Ballerina Bulge or west of the signs near the overlook.

Classic climbs/problems include:

Chips: 5.7

Black Buttress: 5.9

Doug's Roof: 5.10

Rocket Man: 5:10

V3 Despondency


V3 The Trick


V5 Ballerina

V7 Enigma

Getting there and Amenities Suggest change

Find Grand Ledge, Michigan (use Map Quest or Google). Then head through downtown along Bridge St. Once you cross the bridge, hang a left on the first street which is Front Street. You will drive though a subdivision until you dead end at dirt parking lot for Oak Park. The approach to the cliff is obvious; simply hike down towards the river via trails that take you down to where the cliff breaks down on both sides.

Toads is located at 223 North Bridge Street, literally just a few blocks down from Oak Park.  They carry equipment and have a great menu as well.  

179 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 44
Highball aka Pocket Problem
Boulder
V3 6A
 13
The Trick
Boulder
V3 6A
 6
Despondency
Boulder
V4 6B
 10
Walk on By
Boulder
V5 6C
 7
Ballerina
Boulder
V6 7A
 4
Two Peace
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Enigma
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 78
Potato Chips
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
Rocket Man
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 99
Doug's Roof
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Astral Projection
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 22
Intimidator
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Despondency
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Let Me Go Wild
TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 12
Ragged Edge
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Highball aka Pocket Problem Bouldering
 44
V1 5 Boulder
The Trick Bouldering
 13
V3 6A Boulder
Despondency Bouldering
 6
V3 6A Boulder
Walk on By Bouldering
 10
V4 6B Boulder
Ballerina Bouldering
 7
V5 6C Boulder
Two Peace Bouldering
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Enigma Bouldering
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Potato Chips Top Rope
 78
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Rocket Man Top Rope
 61
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Doug's Roof Top Rope
 99
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Astral Projection Top Rope
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Intimidator Top Rope
 22
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Despondency Top Rope
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Let Me Go Wild Top Rope
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Ragged Edge Top Rope
 12
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Grand Ledge (aka Oak Park) »

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