Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Emerald City

Big Toe Arete V0+ 4+ PG13
Black Magic Arete V0+ 4+
Callandor V4-5 6B+
Constellation V0+ 4+
Dangatang V3-4 6A+
Diamond In The Rough S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Father's Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fictitious Egg, The V0+ 4+
Flying Monkeys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollow Threat V4 6B
In The Middle V0+ 4+
Let the Wookie Win V1 5
Lolliop Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mandarin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Sexy Cranberry V0+ 4+
No Place Like Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruby Slippers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saint George V3 6A
Sharp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Shelf Life V0+ 4+
Shining, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skittles V0 4
TNT T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toto V0- 4-
Watto (SDS) V0 4
Whiteout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wolverine V1 5
Yellow Brick Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jamie Baker, Chris Linderman, 1989
Page Views: 827 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crack itself is fairly easy and secure. When the crack turns a ledge step left and pull onto a slab. Protect out of the thin crack and prctice your slab technique heading RIGHT is you want to get down safely or head left as the guidebook (and some demented individuals) recommends.

If you go right, build an anchor at the obvious bolt to TR or bring a second up.

I love this route, but some people think it's stupid. It's really a matter of taste I guess.

Location

Walk around the corner left from the start of Whiteout and find the splitter crack near the corner.

Best bet is to rappel from a single bolt on No Place Like Home. This route really needs its own anchors.

Protection

The initial crack take progressively smaller gear from #4.5 to #1 camalot sizes. The upper slab takes small TCUs. There is no fixed gear other than a bolt on the route No Place Like Home.

Photos

- No Photos -
lhrowland
Frankfort, Ky
lhrowland   Frankfort, Ky
This route now has anchors. Sep 20, 2011