Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 37.75195, -83.66364
FA: Ed Pearsall, Tom Seibert 1980
Page Views: 358 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Wilkinson on Oct 10, 2022
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Classic RRG adventure route. Battle up a chimney and across a chossy traverse to enjoy a stellar, long pitch of jams to an amazing top out.

P1: Have your partner do this pitch. Start up the dusty finger crack that quickly turns to hands, trying to not erode the sandy foot edges on the right. Get up to the ledge then enter the chimney, with a single piece in the back but more cracks for gear hiding above. Grunt around the chockstone that likely has tat around it. Set up a belay in the alcove just above the chockstone.

P2: An easy but mindful traverse across the ledge of choss. PG13. There is some small pro to be had in a few spots, use it to make your follower feel better. Set a belay on top of the sandy nose of rock, small gear and stoppers are useful here.

P3: Step up and left from the belay on rock quality that improves greatly. Come out from the small roof and get your jam on. The wall will start to ramp to the right, extend some gear enjoy the exposure as you cruise to a ledge and set a belay off of a tree.

Descent: We weren't sure a single 70 would get us back to the base, so opted to scramble up to the right then bushwhack back to the left to the anchors on NPLH.

Location Suggest change

From whiteout and NPLH, hike climbers right for two minutes, passing the memorial and MBTC. You should come up to a pair of thin cracks about 25 feet apart, under a large overhang, with an obvious chockstone in the upper chimney of the crack on the right.

Protection Suggest change

We didn't need any gear larger than a #4, but I guess you might be able to use a #6 or #7 in the chimney. Some small stoppers and fingers sizes are helpful for the belays, and double in hand sizes for P3.

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