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Routes in Emerald City
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Black Out T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bulge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diamond In The Rough S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Father's Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Friable T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lollipop Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Man Behind the Curtain, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mandarin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Place Like Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruby Slippers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sharp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Shining, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spiny Norman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TNT T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whiteout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Brick Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Pearsall, Tom Seibert 1980 |
| Page Views: | 109 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Wilkinson on Oct 10, 2022 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Classic RRG adventure route. Battle up a chimney and across a chossy traverse to enjoy a stellar, long pitch of jams to an amazing top out.
P1: Have your partner do this pitch. Start up the dusty finger crack that quickly turns to hands, trying to not erode the sandy foot edges on the right. Get up to the ledge then enter the chimney, with a single piece in the back but more cracks for gear hiding above. Grunt around the chockstone that likely has tat around it. Set up a belay in the alcove just above the chockstone.
P2: An easy but mindful traverse across the ledge of choss. PG13. There is some small pro to be had in a few spots, use it to make your follower feel better. Set a belay on top of the sandy nose of rock, small gear and stoppers are useful here.
P3: Step up and left from the belay on rock quality that improves greatly. Come out from the small roof and get your jam on. The wall will start to ramp to the right, extend some gear enjoy the exposure as you cruise to a ledge and set a belay off of a tree.
Descent: We weren't sure a single 70 would get us back to the base, so opted to scramble up to the right then bushwhack back to the left to the anchors on NPLH.
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