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Routes in Emerald City

Big Toe Arete V0+ 4+ PG13
Black Magic Arete V0+ 4+
Callandor V4-5 6B+
Constellation V0+ 4+
Dangatang V3-4 6A+
Diamond In The Rough S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Father's Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fictitious Egg, The V0+ 4+
Flying Monkeys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollow Threat V4 6B
In The Middle V0+ 4+
Let the Wookie Win V1 5
Lolliop Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mandarin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Sexy Cranberry V0+ 4+
No Place Like Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruby Slippers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saint George V3 6A
Sharp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Shelf Life V0+ 4+
Shining, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skittles V0 4
TNT T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toto V0- 4-
Watto (SDS) V0 4
Whiteout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wolverine V1 5
Yellow Brick Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: J. Link, J.Baker, 1992
Page Views: 5,604 total, 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

One of the finest sport routes in all of the Red, and for that matter, anywhere. That is the reason for my choice for it to be the first one I went back for upon 'homecoming' in Y2K. The name is a great coincidence.
Climb an easy face past a few bolts and move out left onto a steep arete in the sun. Climb past perhaps 10 bolts to the anchors on smaller holds than are common in the red, using the arete frequently for hands and heals.

Location

At the far left end of Emerald City, this steep and tall arete beckons- climb it! This is the last bolted route to the left on this crag.

Protection

Nine bolts, plus the anchors.
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
 
My last route at the Red for 2016, before heading to my actual home. Amazing route. Apr 18, 2017
Keith Button
Ann Arbor, MI
  5.11a
Keith Button   Ann Arbor, MI
  5.11a
Protected the first flake with a #4, but unnecessary because the climbing to the first bolt was 5.6. Pretty easy climbing, but some tough, heady clips. Awesome exposure and moves. Mar 19, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun? Nov 3, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
SSSSsssssoooooooooo question: Are we allowed to climb the left side of the arête?

I sent this today...and right after tackling the initial bulge to gain the steep, bolted right side, I retreated a bit 'round the left side, following well-chalked holds all the way. Bounced straight up the corner to clip the next bolt, but STAYED decidedly on the left side for the next 25ish feet--again following well-chalked (and at times well ticked) holds.

The first thing of it is, all the bolts were well established on the right side. Easy enough to clip--kinda--by reaching around with my monkey arms. But the second thing of it is, climbing that left side hardly keeps company with RRG 11c.

Am I missing something? Is this the softest 11+ in the SE or did I miss must-do moves on the right side?

If not, this thing is 11a at best... Nov 3, 2015
Found the actually climbing easier than I expected for the grade. If its at your limit there is potential for some exciting swings but the actual meat of the route is safely bolted. If you aren't comfortable soloing to the first bolt, which is a good 30 feet, bring a large cam or a hex to protect it. Basically you climb easy terrain to a ledge, then climb a few feet on maybe 5.7 mossy rock to reach the first bolt which is place just high enough that you might fall past the ledge all the way to the ground. Oct 6, 2015
Jess H Whitmore
Cedarville Ohio
Jess H Whitmore   Cedarville Ohio
I used a 70 meter rope and had about 15ft to spare after lowering Jun 2, 2015
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
  5.11a
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
  5.11a
Amazing route! Great exposure, fun moves and perfect rock.... Felt soft for the grade.... Nothing R rated about it. You can bring gear to protect run-out leading to the first high bolt if you so desire. Apr 26, 2013
Hillbill
Indianapolis
  5.11c
Hillbill   Indianapolis
  5.11c
This climb is scary, hard.......fun, long, exposed, and on of the best routs I've ever been on!! I'd say the run-out to the first bold is a good 30ft. or so, which was quite scary but rewarding. Probably the best route in the RED. Apr 23, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Gobs of exposure. Loved every second of this thing. Beautiful view from the top. No R rating to this climb. May 9, 2011
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
 
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
 
By far my favorite 11c of the Gorge, first bolt is a bit of a stretch but follow through SUPER EXPOSED, very tall route full 60m needed 70m is ideal. Feb 2, 2011
Sam Stephens  
 
So good. This route deserves all of the stars it gets. Great exposure, fun moves, and one poorly placed bolt adds to the spice of the route. So, so, so good. May 18, 2010
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
standout route: one for the "best of the Red" lists Dec 4, 2008
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11c
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11c
This route is the best 11c I've done! Super exposed, wasn't any chalk on it when I climbed it (making it very tricky), and there was some strong winds to add to the excitement.

Used up EVERY INCH of a 60m rope to lower. May 6, 2007