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Routes in The Stadium

Areterection S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ascentuality T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Augenblick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheetah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ED T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indecision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kentucky Waterfall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Melancholy Mechanics S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Bones About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psycho Billy Cadillac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scrumbulglazer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tradisfaction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Treetop Terror T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tug-O-War S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walk the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson - 2004
Page Views: 759 total, 6/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the pocketed face to the left-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Location

When you reach the wall go right past "No Bones About It" to the obvious dihedral.

Protection

(1) set of stoppers, (1) set Camalots #.3 - #75

Photos

highneed
  5.8-
highneed  
  5.8-
Like other have said, weird gear. Take tricams thru brown, nuts and .75 - 3 Camalot. Expect to spend more time on gear than climbing. Sep 7, 2016
Kinda run out if you don't bring enough of the right gear. Crack is shallow and flaring, placements are pods that take very specific small cams. .75 down low and bottom section. .3-.4 size cams for the top section, insecure placements besides a single pod that inspires confidence.

Nuts and tricams would work fairly well on this route. Likely scary for a new leader, but the 25 foot runout to the top was very fun imo.

Closer to 5.8 no doubt. Harder than Indecision down the wall (Which is 5.8 but honestly more like 5.6/7 ish) Sep 9, 2015
michaeltarne  
 
Not recommended for a newer leader- gear is kinda funky and mostly small. Oct 22, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
funky route with a funky anchor position. watch the pull.

used gear from fingers to thin hands, double set and a small stopper or two.

hard for 5.7. Oct 16, 2012
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
smeary layback... don't climb if wet May 24, 2011