Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson - 2004
Page Views: 830 total · 6/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the pocketed face to the left-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Location

When you reach the wall go right past "No Bones About It" to the obvious dihedral.

Protection

(1) set of stoppers, (1) set Camalots #.3 - #75

Photos

J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
smeary layback... don't climb if wet May 24, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
funky route with a funky anchor position. watch the pull.

used gear from fingers to thin hands, double set and a small stopper or two.

hard for 5.7. Oct 16, 2012
michaeltarne  
 
Not recommended for a newer leader- gear is kinda funky and mostly small. Oct 22, 2013
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Kinda run out if you don't bring enough of the right gear. Crack is shallow and flaring, placements are pods that take very specific small cams. .75 down low and bottom section. .3-.4 size cams for the top section, insecure placements besides a single pod that inspires confidence.

Nuts and tricams would work fairly well on this route. Likely scary for a new leader, but the 25 foot runout to the top was very fun imo.

Closer to 5.8 no doubt. Harder than Indecision down the wall (Which is 5.8 but honestly more like 5.6/7 ish) Sep 9, 2015
highneed
  5.8-
highneed  
  5.8-
Like other have said, weird gear. Take tricams thru brown, nuts and .75 - 3 Camalot. Expect to spend more time on gear than climbing. Sep 7, 2016