| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
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Brett Does Lawn Jobs (aka.-…
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Pawtuckaway
> Boulder Natural
> Yosemite Boulder Area
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V5+ 6C+
Boulder
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Oct 15, 2025 · Attempt. G
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The Seal
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Trad 4 pitches
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Sep 18, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead. Nice to lead all 4 routes here today
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Delapidated
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
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Sep 18, 2025 · Lead. A #1 and .4 placed below roof (stopper might be better here) and then .75 and .3 on slab with two bolts. Slotted in a .5 at top in seal roof.
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Killer Whales
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
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Sep 18, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. This felt more of a heady lead than the neighbor shrimp. But once you know the gear placements it was casual. Two blind nut placements in the corner. First a purple BD and then yellow BD nut before the #2 in the roof. Nice to lead all the roots in this zone today.
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Shrimp Cocktail
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Trad
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Sep 18, 2025 · Lead. First checked out moved on TR. felt casual and definitely not R with the bolt that replaced the pin down low. Easy climbing up top. I placed two .3 and a .4 before anchors.
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Pockets of Resistance
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 3. Rico Suave Buttress
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · TR. Didn’t use the big flake down on right at start at all. Use the pinch/undercling with small crimps on face between bolt 1 and 2 to move up to really good uncut under overlap. Then did big reach up left to pizza flake.
Top is definitely crux. Match in last descent pocket. Small crimp up left then undercling with high feet to do big move to big jug up high. Is a small crimp lower down that could use too.
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Preparation H
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 3. Rico Suave Buttress
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · TR. Supper fun route. Would love to lead it. In cruxy mid section first layback on left side then switch over to the right side and commit to layback with high feet and then heel hook makes it very secure going to good holds. There is a side pull out right but I didn’t use.
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●
Out of the Bag
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 3. Rico Suave Buttress
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5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · TR. Flashed the TR. should’ve just led it but tired at end of trip. Felt like crux also below corner (at third bolt). Work right on crimp rail to crappy crimps. Long reach up and right to crappy dishes. Do another move right to pull up on ledge.
Then just lie back corner. Key foot on arete to step up to good holds. Can setup TR’s on routes to right.
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●
Grit and Bear It
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 3. Rico Suave Buttress
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205
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Techy face. Top is overhung small crimps and hard to clip last bolt. Off of crimps. Often climbs far out right of bolt line
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Totally Tammy
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 3. Rico Suave Buttress
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Fun techy climbing! High left foot with undercling/sidepull to step left at first bolt. Flick rope to prevent rope drag
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Lost Souls
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 6. Butcher's Branch
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Trying to get the flash. Fell throwing for the jug before traversing right. Hit the hold too far left. Better to go farther right/center
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First Steps
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 7. Seven Eleven Wall
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Not bad chimney up to first bolt. Crux was after pulling roof. I just got my right foot high to reach small crimp straight up and pull thru to jug.
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Flight of the Gumbie
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New River Gorge…
> …
> Kaymoor
> 6. Butcher's Branch
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport
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Sep 16, 2025 · Lead. Nice warmup. 9 draws and mussie
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Invisible Airways Direct
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
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Sep 9, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Took a few goes to get the delicate stemming dialed for the send
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Invisible Airways
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
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Sep 9, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead.
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Safari Arete (extension)
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
|
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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
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Aug 27, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Nice extension to an already killer route. Want to come back for the full 70m double direct linkup. Surprised about how well this pitch protects. Lots of mid to larger cam placement
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Safari Jive
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
|
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5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad 2 pitches
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Aug 27, 2025 · Lead. Bummed to fall on the flash go. Was mixing the two betas. Feels pretty casual now with beta dialed. Went on second go.
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Cornflake Crack
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1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
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5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad 3 pitches
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Mar 19, 2025 · Lead. Bummed to fall on first pitch but got straight on this so wasn’t warmed up. Sent it second to and onsited rest of route. Was giddy the whole time. SO GOOD!! Probably best climb I’ve done so far in WNC
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Breakfast of Champions
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1. Southern Mou…
> Rumbling Bald
> Cereal Buttress
|
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad
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Feb 24, 2025 · Lead. I went straight up from 1st bolt and foot traverses the rail which made clipping bolt 2 very challenging and definitely no fall zone. I wonder if most people hand traverse the crimp rail before going up. A .5 or .75 can be placed as first piece
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Argonaut
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 12. Big Arete
|
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5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
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Oct 15, 2024 · Lead. Tough onsite. Fell when a foot popped at start. Travers left below first bolt. Hidden pocket in middle blank section with a good edge up and right after pockets.
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Butterfingers
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 12. Big Arete
|
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
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Oct 15, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Good jugs thru low roof. Took the lower left variation out of the big flake.
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●
Devil in the White House
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 10. Devil in the Whit…
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5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
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Oct 15, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Not the best warmup. Chill to high first bolt. Number of variations.
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●
Smooth Sailing (aka Lloyd W…
|
3. Piedmont Region
> Pilot Mountain
> 12. Big Arete
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
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Oct 15, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Pretty chill then top is cryptic. Nothings up and right despite the desire for a hold there. High feet and balance.
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Little Viper
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
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Sep 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Took left variation at roof. One move Layback
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●
Jungle Trundler
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
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Sep 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Thought provoking moves throughout. Thin start. Stick clip.
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●
The Sperm
|
1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad 4 pitches
|
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Jun 10, 2024 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Interesting route. Not sure why it’s considered such a classic
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The Womb
|
1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad 3 pitches
|
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Jun 10, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Longest break I took from climbing. First outdoor lead in over 7 months. Good you don’t have to pull hard on this one.
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●
Long Slab aka Milk Duds
|
Foster Falls
> 07. The Dihedrals
|
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5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
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Mar 30, 2024 · Lead. Start left on little arete
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Supersaturated
|
Foster Falls
> 08. Jimmywood
|
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5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
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Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Excellent! Getting off ground felt like crux. Then big reach off of underling lower down. Then layback up top.
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Story of My Life
|
Foster Falls
> 08. Jimmywood
|
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5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
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Mar 30, 2024 · Lead. Can clip final bolt from top of right crack. I went low on crimps but next time can go to top jug in right crack then reach across left to jug.
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●
Something's Always Wrong
|
Foster Falls
> 05. The Right Bunker
|
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Mar 30, 2024
|
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●
Bayou Boy
|
Deep Creek
> Hemlock Block
> Hemlock Block Proper
|
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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
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Aug 16, 2022
|
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●
Flight of the Intruder
|
Deep Creek
> Hemlock Block
> Hemlock Block Proper
|
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
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Aug 16, 2022
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Vertigo
|
Deep Creek
> Hemlock Block
> Hemlock Block Proper
|
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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
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Aug 16, 2022
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Circus Circus
|
Tennessee Wall
> (5) The Wasteland
|
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
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Mar 14, 2022 · Follow.
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Air Raid
|
Tennessee Wall
> (5) The Wasteland
|
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5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad 2 pitches
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Mar 14, 2022 · Lead / Onsight.
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