Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rob Robinson and Kirk Brode, 2002
Page Views: 3,641 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Circus Circus climbs two short pitches of great rock on the south side of T Wall. Pitch one: work up through broken blocky rock until you can step right under a very large roof. Traverse this roof finding the path of least resistance and don't forget your second. Set up a gear anchor when you reach a notch/alcove below a short roof with a dihedral above. Pitch two: step out under the roof and climb the dihedral through a series of roofs up high. Rap on newly installed rap rings.

Location

Two pitch route located on the south end of T Wall, just past Where Lizards Go To Die. Look for a right angling ramp beneath a huge roof that leads to a alcove below a dihedral.

Protection

Standard Rack. New rap rings at the top of pitch two.

Photos

Rob Robinson
  5.8+ PG13
Rob Robinson  
  5.8+ PG13
This spectacular routes wends through an intimidating band of massive overhangs. It is NOT for the faint of heart, and it is NOT for the "up and coming" 5.8 leader. You should be a SOLID 5.9 leader before attempting this route.

Be sure to place enough gear on the first pitch traverse to adequately protect your second.

The technical crux is a small roof near the top of pitch two. Oct 16, 2008
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
No need to be afraid of this one. A little more involved than most T-Wall routes with the traverse and gear belay, but the gear is all there through the entire route. Should pose no problems for the experienced 5.8 trad climber. Dec 7, 2012
BlakeSalmony
Nashville
BlakeSalmony   Nashville
Fixed a nut at the gear belay. Didn't have my nut tool to get it out. Earn the karma and send it back to me, use as part of your anchor, or poke it out and enjoy the early xmas gift. Nov 11, 2013
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
A fun little adventure with a superb second pitch! Protects well - don't forget about your second on the intimidating but easy traverse! I thought the technical crux was getting into the immaculate dihedral at the start of p2. The roofs up top were fairly mellow and protection possibilities omnipresent.

With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground. Mar 12, 2014
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
Wei-Ming Lam   Phoenix, AZ
Do yourself a favor and either A: Climb it as recommended in 2 pitches, or B: Use 2 ropes.

Drag from linking pitches was so unpleasant. Stubborn me wanting to link. Apr 7, 2015
Alex James
Ballard, WA
  5.8
Alex James   Ballard, WA
  5.8
Even though I'm going against Rob Robinson, I feel like I need to add a comment so random mountain project people aren't scared off. I think this climb is a wonderful traverse under the roof that is well protected and not terribly hard. I agree with the grade at 5.8 and think it is entirely suitable for a 5.8 leader. As long as you remember to protect your second on the traverse, then there is no way I would give it a PG or even PG13 rating. Dec 23, 2016