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Routes in (5) The Wasteland
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A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Air Raid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Circling Buzzards T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Class Action T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Elephus Maximus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great Unchoppable, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavy Petting Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Magnum Bro T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pop Life T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Pump Failure T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Talon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweedledee T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Two Clowns on a Rope T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Violence Is Golden T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.0733, -85.40528 |
| FA: | Steve Goins, Truly Bracken 1992 |
| Page Views: | 130 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on May 26, 2024 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
This obscure adventure route offers a few unique features and mostly good pro on solid rock.
P1: Getting onto the beast is a challenge itself, and the pump begins to build immediately. Make some long moves on decent holds, aiming at a long horizontal undercling crack. Do a funky high step and gain the crack (crux), then manage the lactic acid as you cut right along the crack line. At the end of the crack, advance upward via a neat, short slot. Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board above, and enjoy the spacious belay ledge (5.11)
P2: Quest upward, zigging a bit left and right through the best holds and easiest terrain. It’s pretty moderate en route to the final roof pull, which takes place at a distinct point to the right of the vegetated crack. I wouldn’t advise falling on this part, but it’s not overly hard (5.10)
The route can be linked in one pitch, but it’s a better idea to split it up.
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