Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1984
Page Views: 2,303 total · 16/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Supposedly the first route established at the Tennessee Wall.

Starts 200' left of the Wood Spirit cedar tree, in a right facing corner, right of the waterfall.

Follow the corner up, trending left under the small roof. Undercling left and pull this for a stance below the final 30' of hand/fist crack. Climb to top.

Location

The start is in a recess 200' past the weird cedar tree.

Protection

Standard rack. A couple extra 2-3" pieces work well for the top.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
I did this somewhat differently and I guess there are a couple options on this route. I followed the obvious crack on the right side until I could get my hands on top of a flat block and traversed left. Moving up from here you get a nice stance in a cool alcove with a "diving board" on the right side. Look down and take in the wildness of the route. Move left and up into the chimney and get some gear. Chimney left, place a big piece above you, and exit the chimney on small holds...tricky with a helmet and/or if you're a larger individual. Work up the wide crack to a nice stance. If you didn't bring a #5 cam with you there are apparently finger-sized cracks on the left (according to my second); otherwise it's a run-out from the chimney exit. Work the hand crack the rest of the way up and finagle the somewhat tricky and dirty exit.

Bring long runners and a #4 cam in addition to a standard rack. Doubles in #2 cams would not go unused up top and neither would a #5 cam. Hexes place well too. Crux seemed to be exiting the chimney and the next 20' of climbing, though the lower section and the top-out are not trivial. Very cool route. Nov 14, 2017