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Routes in T-Wall West

A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Circus Circus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superwave T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1984
Page Views: 2,204 total · 16/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Supposedly the first route established at the Tennessee Wall.

Starts 200' left of the Wood Spirit cedar tree, in a right facing corner, right of the waterfall.

Follow the corner up, trending left under the small roof. Undercling left and pull this for a stance below the final 30' of hand/fist crack. Climb to top.

Location

The start is in a recess 200' past the weird cedar tree.

Protection

Standard rack. A couple extra 2-3" pieces work well for the top.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
I did this somewhat differently and I guess there are a couple options on this route. I followed the obvious crack on the right side until I could get my hands on top of a flat block and traversed left. Moving up from here you get a nice stance in a cool alcove with a "diving board" on the right side. Look down and take in the wildness of the route. Move left and up into the chimney and get some gear. Chimney left, place a big piece above you, and exit the chimney on small holds...tricky with a helmet and/or if you're a larger individual. Work up the wide crack to a nice stance. If you didn't bring a #5 cam with you there are apparently finger-sized cracks on the left (according to my second); otherwise it's a run-out from the chimney exit. Work the hand crack the rest of the way up and finagle the somewhat tricky and dirty exit.

Bring long runners and a #4 cam in addition to a standard rack. Doubles in #2 cams would not go unused up top and neither would a #5 cam. Hexes place well too. Crux seemed to be exiting the chimney and the next 20' of climbing, though the lower section and the top-out are not trivial. Very cool route. Nov 14, 2017

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