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Heaven's Gate
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in T-Wall West
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A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All The Colors Of Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crankenstein T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Dreaming of Beauty T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Electric Ambiance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Explosivo! T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gambler, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kentucky Fried Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magnum Bro T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Open Casket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pump Failure T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Send Lawyers, Guns, And Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sinji T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Taming The Flaming T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Then everything begins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Walking Spanish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Darrow Kirkpatrick October 1997 |
| Page Views: | 155 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on Dec 19, 2023 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Best get your mind right for this one.
Start up a moderate face and corner crack system until you reach the first of two arching cracks, easily visible from the ground. Find some way to transition from the right-leaning crack (easy!) through shockingly steep terrain to the second, left-leaning crack (hard!). Aim for the jug above the latter crack and hold on tight (crux!).
Achieve the alcove above. Wonder why it's not that great of a resting position. Wonder why the gear isn't as good or as obvious as it should be. Bemoan both of these facts, then try to rest and stitch up as much as you can manage, because you're a good 15-20 feet from your next placement.
Up and right over the small bulge above the alcove is your path to salvation, and the moves become more casual after the small sloping ledge is achieved. From that point forward, there's only a piece or two of gear in the 30ish foot run to the chains, so keep your eyes peeled and don't fall on the easy part.
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