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Heaven's Gate
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in (4) Paradise Wall
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Benevolence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Explosivo! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whistlin' in the Boneyard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 35.07227, -85.4094 |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Darrow Kirkpatrick October 1997 |
| Page Views: | 304 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on Dec 19, 2023 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
Best get your mind right for this one.
Start up a moderate face and corner crack system until you reach the first of two arching cracks, easily visible from the ground. Find some way to transition from the right-leaning crack (easy!) through shockingly steep terrain to the second, left-leaning crack (hard!). Aim for the jug above the latter crack and hold on tight (crux!).
Achieve the alcove above. Wonder why it's not that great of a resting position. Wonder why the gear isn't as good or as obvious as it should be. Bemoan both of these facts, then try to rest and stitch up as much as you can manage, because you're a good 15-20 feet from your next placement.
Up and right over the small bulge above the alcove is your path to salvation, and the moves become more casual after the small sloping ledge is achieved. From that point forward, there's only a piece or two of gear in the 30ish foot run to the chains, so keep your eyes peeled and don't fall on the easy part.
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