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Routes in T-Wall West

A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Sight of Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superwave T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jerry Roberts - 2000
Page Views: 556 total, 6/month
Shared By: yevquest on Nov 28, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A fun outing on good rock, unfortunately neglected like so many T-wall sport routes. The top headwall is often wet, if it's dry, this route is worth doing.

Start by stick clipping the first bolt (shared with the Dark Star). Climb easy ground to the right of the first bolt, then head left, passing the 2nd bolt of the Dark Star (don't clip) to clip the second on the Stinger Arete. Now head up and left on good holds to a good rest below a bulge. Fire the bulge (crux) and climb ever improving holds to another small roof. Huge jugs lead to the headwall where an odd little move leads to the last clip. If the route has been climbed recently (doubtful), the end is easy although a little runout. If it's unchalked (likely), enjoy an exciting journey, trying not to take a 30+ footer at the chains.

Location

On the left side of the Paradise Falls ampitheater. Shares the same start as the Dark Star.

Protection

Nine bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

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yevquest
Southeast,US
 
yevquest   Southeast,US
 
I found this easy for the grade, much easier than Twisting in the Wind or Stone Henge. Regardless, it's a fun route on T-wall's super good rock. The only downside is the top is often wet. The anchor is rusty because of this. Nov 28, 2009