Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jerry Roberts - 2000
Page Views: 624 total · 6/month
Shared By: yevquest on Nov 28, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

A fun outing on good rock, unfortunately neglected like so many T-wall sport routes. The top headwall is often wet, if it's dry, this route is worth doing.

Start by stick clipping the first bolt (shared with the Dark Star). Climb easy ground to the right of the first bolt, then head left, passing the 2nd bolt of the Dark Star (don't clip) to clip the second on the Stinger Arete. Now head up and left on good holds to a good rest below a bulge. Fire the bulge (crux) and climb ever improving holds to another small roof. Huge jugs lead to the headwall where an odd little move leads to the last clip. If the route has been climbed recently (doubtful), the end is easy although a little runout. If it's unchalked (likely), enjoy an exciting journey, trying not to take a 30+ footer at the chains.

Location

On the left side of the Paradise Falls ampitheater. Shares the same start as the Dark Star.

Protection

Nine bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

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yevquest
Southeast,US
  5.12b/c
yevquest   Southeast,US
  5.12b/c
I found this easy for the grade, much easier than Twisting in the Wind or Stone Henge. Regardless, it's a fun route on T-wall's super good rock. The only downside is the top is often wet. The anchor is rusty because of this. Nov 28, 2009