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Routes in T-Wall West

A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Sight of Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superwave T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 432 total, 6/month
Shared By: yevquest on Jan 6, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Wandering left from the main approach trail at T-Wall, away from the crowds and noise, you eventually arrive at the scenic and beautiful Paradise Falls area. This section of the cliff is loaded with great sport routes featuring many different styles of climbing. Perhaps the most unique is Grace, a route that requires as much footwork and body tension as it does finger strength.

Stick clip the first bolt and then start a good bit down and right. Follow and obvious system of goods hands and poor feet that lead back to the first bolt. This is a little scary your first time as falling on the first few moves would surely involve hitting something hard but not to worry, it's not very difficult. A hardish boulder problem at the second bolt leads to a great rest and easy climbing that ends underneath a small roof below an obvious stem box. The difficulty starts again with fancy footwork and cool palming in the box, leading to another bolt. The next twenty feet are the crux, requiring some more nimble footwork and long reaches between less than optimal holds. A good square jug and a welcome bolt mark the end of the difficulty. A fun 5.11 roof provides some icing on the cake. Try not to fall up here as a Sweetgum tree could provide unwanted friction.

Location

On the left side of the Paradise Falls amphitheater, one route route left of the Stinger Arete.

Protection

Eight bolts and anchors

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