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Belly Of The Beast
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (4) Paradise Wall
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Benevolence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Explosivo! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whistlin' in the Boneyard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.07227, -85.4094 |
| FA: | RR and Tom Campbell, May 1985 |
| Page Views: | 346 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on May 9, 2023 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Start atop the pointed boulder then maneuver carefully onto the inner face. Pulling around the corner is the first crux, at which point easier climbing will lead you to a small ledge. The corner crack is thin, but face holds and glorious stemming will lead to yet another difficult move pulling around the corner. From here, the crack gets wide, and getting into the upper chimney will prove one last challenge.
Chattrad lists the climb as 5.10, but we felt it was a touch harder with several different crux sequences.
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