The Dark Star
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in T-Wall West
[Redacted] T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R | |
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c | |
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
SchrÃ¶dinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | Jerry Roberts - 2000 |
Page Views: | 1,248 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | yevquest on Nov 28, 2009 |
Admins: | saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough |
Description
To those that say that sport climbing is boring, I say hop on the Dark Star. Lots of memorable moves, very cool position, and improbable holds add up to must-do for the sport climber willing to get a little dirty.
The end of the route is somewhat unclimbable now which is why I gave it only 3 stars.
Start by stick clipping the first bolt and climbing to the right of the bolt line to the 2nd bolt. The next 40 feet clocks in the low 5.12 range using sidebulls, jugs, a fingerlock, crimps, the whole shebang. There are jugs periodically but the angle is steeper than it looks, slowly bleeding you. When the angle gets really steep, the moves get bigger but the holds get really big. The crux is pretty obvious, a very steep bulge that looks blank. Use a cool, hidden fingerlock/jug and a slopey undercling to make a very large move up and left to a blind hold. A knee bar can be useful here to check the swing. Now head for the Dark Star, the big hole above, using huge holds in very steep rock. Crawl into the Dark Star and relax, enjoying the waterfall and the view of the river. I stopped here (as have others I've talked to).
The original finish went out the chossy roof crack (no bolts) to the lip of the roof and up the headwall. The headwall seems now to be continually wet as was the roof crack so stopping in the Dark Star seems to make sense. The grade of 13a seems about right stopping here.
The end of the route is somewhat unclimbable now which is why I gave it only 3 stars.
Start by stick clipping the first bolt and climbing to the right of the bolt line to the 2nd bolt. The next 40 feet clocks in the low 5.12 range using sidebulls, jugs, a fingerlock, crimps, the whole shebang. There are jugs periodically but the angle is steeper than it looks, slowly bleeding you. When the angle gets really steep, the moves get bigger but the holds get really big. The crux is pretty obvious, a very steep bulge that looks blank. Use a cool, hidden fingerlock/jug and a slopey undercling to make a very large move up and left to a blind hold. A knee bar can be useful here to check the swing. Now head for the Dark Star, the big hole above, using huge holds in very steep rock. Crawl into the Dark Star and relax, enjoying the waterfall and the view of the river. I stopped here (as have others I've talked to).
The original finish went out the chossy roof crack (no bolts) to the lip of the roof and up the headwall. The headwall seems now to be continually wet as was the roof crack so stopping in the Dark Star seems to make sense. The grade of 13a seems about right stopping here.
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