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Hell or High Water
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 27
votes
Routes in (4) Paradise Wall
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Benevolence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Explosivo! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whistlin' in the Boneyard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 35.07227, -85.4094 |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Kirk Brode - 2002 |
| Page Views: | 3,762 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
A great little route that packs a punch. A couple hundred yards past Superwave and the Wood Spirit tree and right of the huge roofs of Homeland Insecurity and Shadows. Begin immediately left of a large boulder leaning against the wall that forms a nice little shady alcove.
Step up at a wide crack/chimney and climb up and right across an unprotected face until it is possible to step onto the boulder. Continue up an easy ramp to a stance where good gear can be had. Climb up a nice finger crack in a right-facing corner to the obvious "ship's prow" flake that juts straight out of the wall below the roof. Hand traverse out the prow and pull through the roof systems above. A stance can be gained below a final overlap; pull through this up to a 15' stretch of face climbing past a lone bolt. Bolted anchors (but could use some quicklinks to replace the manky webbing).
6 Comments