Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,271 ft 387 m
GPS: 35.07227, -85.4094
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 101,247 total · 429/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

When things are too crowded in T-Wall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, T-Wall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multi-pitch lines at T-Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of T-Wall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.

If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.

For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.

Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.

39 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: (4) Paradise Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Ribbon Cracks
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Quick an' Dirty
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
Open Boat Whalers
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
A Turn of the Page
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Hell or High Water
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
The Midget Cage
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Only on Earth
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Explosivo!
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Protect And Serve
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Homeland Insecurity
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
The Stinger Arete
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Fists of Fury
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Stone Hinge
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Burn
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
The Message
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ribbon Cracks
 47
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Quick an' Dirty
 35
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Open Boat Whalers
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
A Turn of the Page
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hell or High Water
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
The Midget Cage
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Only on Earth
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Explosivo!
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Protect And Serve
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Homeland Insecurity
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
The Stinger Arete
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fists of Fury
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Stone Hinge
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Burn
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Message
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Wall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments