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Routes in (5) The Wasteland
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A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Air Raid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Circling Buzzards T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Class Action T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Elephus Maximus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great Unchoppable, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavy Petting Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Magnum Bro T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pop Life T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Pump Failure T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Talon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweedledee T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Two Clowns on a Rope T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Violence Is Golden T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 35.0733, -85.40528 |
| FA: | RR, Bruce Rogers 4/85 |
| Page Views: | 182 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Richardson on Feb 22, 2024 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
A definite adventure route.
Start as for Magnum Bro (see page for picture and details). Carefully boulder the chossy start up into the corner, then cut right around the bush into a very easy corner. Continue upward for a bit until a belay ledge appears. If splitting into two pitches, belay here.
Advance further up the corner crack, which grows a bit more difficult after the ledge. When you reach the top of the crack, traverse far right on easy but slightly runout terrain to go around the first bulge. Then, cut back hard left to attack the big roof at its weakness. You've found the 10+ bit, and it's a wild one! Having summited the roof, victory jog up the corner to bolted anchors.
Rope management: The route is fairly straight up the corner until the final zig-zag prior to the crux. Even split into two pitches, avoiding rope drag is tricky. Either use double ropes, bring a couple quad slings for extending pieces during the zig-zag, or be prepared for drag through the crux.
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