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Routes in T-Wall West

A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Sight of Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superwave T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Forest Gardner 1985
Page Views: 608 total, 8/month
Shared By: American Dankster on Nov 21, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Climb 5.6 for 35ft to a bolt just below the (black streaked) orange overhang. You can place a finger size cam in the pocket below the bolt and not even use the bolt

Boulder out and through the white triangle in the roof. Turn it up a notch and pull into one of the coolest huecos around. (nicknamed the toilet bowl). Clip the bolt (the only one needed).

Pull out of the hueco and continue straight and right, up a head wall. A few hard moves lead to a crack in a small roof. Pull over this and head right to bolted anchor.

An obvious contender for best hueco at T Wall.

Location

The Wasteland. To The Right of Talon And Left of Circus Circus/Two Clowns on a Rope.

There is a 5.12 Variation called Spinal Wrecker that goes left after you crawl into the bowl. I recommend not clipping that bolt over your head and far left if your doing Wrectum Wrecker. Run it!

Protection

Small nuts
TCUs/C3s
Quickdraws (One bolt, hmm or two)
#2
(Optional .5-1)
Tape Gloves are nice.

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