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Routes in T-Wall West

A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Turn of the Page S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Star, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elephus Maximus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Sight of Power T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Slip T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Open Casket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superwave T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wood Spirit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 754 total, 13/month
Shared By: howellpeebles on Jan 20, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

Work a hand crack up to the face with a finger crack. Fun climbing.

Location

On Serenity wall just a few feet left of Little Steps (5.7).

Protection

Possible 3" placement down low, otherwise a standard rack up to 2". Plenty of placement opportunities. NO ANCHORS as of January 2013. There was one questionable tree about 20' away from the edge that can be slung for an anchor. I chose to downclimb.

Photos

Dan Chandler
Louisville, Ky.
 
Dan Chandler   Louisville, Ky.
 
Dirty without obvious path in spots. Had to run out last 15 feet before mantling on a precarious, very sandy, very grassy ledge. From there, 15 foot bushwack to sling a large three.

5.6? My climbing partner successfully lead several trad 5.7-5.9s during our visit. His only fall was about 20 feet up on Sundance.

Belay station is without shade, and pretty much in the brush. Expect bushwack to find, whether coming from East or West.

Instead of hiking over to this little-climbed route on a busy weekend, wish I had just waited in line elsewhere. Nov 16, 2013