Routes in T-Wall West
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A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Benevolence T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birth Simulator, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Circling Buzzards T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Class Action T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crankenstein T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Elephus Maximus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Explosivo! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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First Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Great Unchoppable, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harvest Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Heavy Petting Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magnum Bro T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Open Casket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path of the Mystics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pocket Pussy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Protect And Serve T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pump Failure T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Queen Bitch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Schrödinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sinji T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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T-Rex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Talon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweedledee T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ |
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Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Violence Is Golden T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Walking Spanish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whistlin' in the Boneyard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wild Pink Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 1,271 ft | 387 m |
GPS: |
35.07227, -85.4094 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 100,964 total · 448/month | |
Shared By: | saxfiend on Aug 22, 2006 · Updates | |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
When things are too crowded in T-Wall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, T-Wall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multi-pitch lines at T-Wall.
Getting There
Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of T-Wall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.
If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.
For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.
Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.
If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.
For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.
Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.
Classic Climbing Routes at T-Wall West
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
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● Circus Circus |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Open Casket |
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | ||
● The Schrödinger Equation |
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5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | ||
● Where Lizards Go to Die |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | ||
● Air Raid |
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5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Hell or High Water |
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5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | ||
● Only on Earth |
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5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Protect And Serve |
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5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad | ||
● Homeland Insecurity |
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5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad | ||
● The Stinger Arete |
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5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Fists of Fury |
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5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches | ||
● Stone Hinge |
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5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
● Burn |
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5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
● Tamper Proof |
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5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad | ||
● Psycho Path |
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5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport |
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