Routes in TWall West
A Nice Place to Come T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  
A Turn of the Page S 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Air Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
All The Colors Of Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  
Balls to the Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Belly Of The Beast T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  
Big Orange Country T 5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Birth Simulator, The T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
Blood Meridian T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  
Bombproof Roof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Burn S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  
Can't Touch This T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII 19 E2 5b  
Circus Circus T 5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Class Action T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Combustion Cycle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Crankenstein T 5.11 6c 22 VIII 22 E3 5c  
Dark Star, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  
Donkey Show, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c PG13  
Dreaming of Beauty T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  
Dumpster Proof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  
Electric Ambiance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  
Elephus Maximus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13  
Explosivo! T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
First Dance T 5.10 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
Fists of Fury T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX 27 E6 6b  
Gambler, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII 23 E3 5c  
Golden Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Grace S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  
Great Unchoppable, The T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
Greener Pastures T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
Hammer Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
Hands of Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII 23 E3 5c  
Harvest Time T 5.10 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R  
Heat Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
Heaven's Gate T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  
Hell or High Water T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII 23 E3 5c  
Homeland Insecurity T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  
Hookers and Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  
In Sight of Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Keelhauled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  
Kentucky Fried Fingers T 5.11 6c 22 VIII 22 E3 5c  
Killer Diller (aka Silver Spurs) T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Little Green Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Little Steps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  
Magnum Bro T 5.11 6c 22 VIII 22 E3 5c PG13  
Magnum Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13  
Mass Transit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  
Message, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  
Midget Cage, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Moon of the Crow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
No Name Number One T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
One Slip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  
Only on Earth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  
Open Boat Whalers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  
Open Casket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  
Out On A Whim T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  
Path of the Misfits T 5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Path of the Mystics T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
Pocket Pussy T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
Protect And Serve T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  
Psycho Path S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  
Pump Failure T 5.12 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  
Queen Bitch T 5.11 6c 22 VIII 22 E3 5c  
Quick an' Dirty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Ribbon Cracks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  
Riff, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  
Rockgasm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  
Run with the Horseman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
SchrÃ¶dinger Equation, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  
Send Lawyers, Guns, And Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Sewanee Gun Club T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13  
Sinji T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Sole Searcher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  
Stand And Deliver T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  
Starting Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  
Steep Eye for the Slab Guy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13  
Step Into My Dream T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  
Step Right Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  
Stinger Arete, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX 27 E6 6b  
Stone Hinge S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  
Superwave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  
TRex S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  
Talon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  
Taming The Flaming T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII 23 E4 5c  
Tamper Proof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  
Then everything begins T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Tribal Babysitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c  
Two bums are better than none T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+  
Unknown L of Wild Pink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  
Violence Is Golden T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  
Voodoo That You Do T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  
Walking Spanish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13  
Where Lizards Go to Die T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
Where the sidewalk ends T 5.11 6c 22 VIII 22 E3 5c  
Wild Pink T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  
Wild Pink Direct T 5.10 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  
William "The Frig" Perry T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b PG13  
Wood Spirit, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b  
Wrectum Wrecker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX 27 E6 6b 
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation:  1,271 ft  387 m 
GPS: 
35.06887, 85.4194 Google Map · Climbing Area Map 

Page Views:  100,699 total · 454/month  
Shared By:  saxfiend on Aug 22, 2006  
Admins:  Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend 
Description
When things are too crowded in TWall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, TWall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multipitch lines at TWall.
Getting There
Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of TWall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.
If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.
For climbing at the far left (western) end of TWall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pulloff on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedgeshaped boulder visible from the road.
Following a line of surveyor'stapemarked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.
If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.
For climbing at the far left (western) end of TWall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pulloff on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedgeshaped boulder visible from the road.
Following a line of surveyor'stapemarked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.
Classic Climbing Routes at TWall West
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name  Location  Star Rating  Difficulty  Date 

● Circus Circus 

5.8 5b 16 VI 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches  
● Open Casket 

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad  
● The SchrÃ¶dinger Equation 

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad  
● Where Lizards Go to Die 

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad  
● Open Boat Whalers 

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad  
● Air Raid 

5.10 6b 20 VII 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches  
● Hookers and Blow 

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad  
● Hell or High Water 

5.11b 6c 23 VIII 23 E3 5c Trad  
● Only on Earth 

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches  
● Homeland Insecurity 

5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad  
● The Stinger Arete 

5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX 27 E6 6b Sport  
● Fists of Fury 

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches  
● Burn 

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport  
● Tamper Proof 

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad  
● Psycho Path 

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport 
Weather Averages
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