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Elevation: 1,271 ft 387 m
GPS: 35.07227, -85.4094
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

When things are too crowded in T-Wall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, T-Wall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multi-pitch lines at T-Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of T-Wall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.

If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.

For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.

Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.

91 Total Climbs

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Location: T-Wall West Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at T-Wall West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Circus Circus
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 60
Open Casket
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
The Schrödinger Equation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Where Lizards Go to Die
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Air Raid
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Hell or High Water
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Only on Earth
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Protect And Serve
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Homeland Insecurity
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
The Stinger Arete
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Fists of Fury
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Stone Hinge
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Burn
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Tamper Proof
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Psycho Path
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Circus Circus
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Open Casket
 60
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Schrödinger Equation
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Where Lizards Go to Die
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Air Raid
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Hell or High Water
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Only on Earth
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Protect And Serve
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Homeland Insecurity
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
The Stinger Arete
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Fists of Fury
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Stone Hinge
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Burn
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tamper Proof
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
Psycho Path
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in T-Wall West »

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