Elevation: 1,271 ft
GPS: 35.069, -85.419 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,623 total · 262/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
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Description

When things are too crowded in T-Wall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, T-Wall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multi-pitch lines at T-Wall.

Getting There

Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of T-Wall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.

If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.

For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.

Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at T-Wall West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Ribbon Cracks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Circus Circus
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
In Sight of Power
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Open Casket
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 46
Where Lizards Go to Die
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Hammer Time
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
A Turn of the Page
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Open Boat Whalers
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 10
William "The Frig" Perry
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Hell or High Water
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Only on Earth
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Fists of Fury
Trad 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Burn
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Tamper Proof
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Psycho Path
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ribbon Cracks
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Circus Circus
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
In Sight of Power
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Open Casket
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Where Lizards Go to Die
 46
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hammer Time
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
A Turn of the Page
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Open Boat Whalers
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
William "The Frig" Perry
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Hell or High Water
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Only on Earth
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Fists of Fury
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Burn
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tamper Proof
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
Psycho Path
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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