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Routes in Big Arete

Anchors Away S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bet Ya Can't Eat Just One TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hunger Strike TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lloyd Would Have Liked It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Overboard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

This area is 200 ft. past Devil in the White House. You can see the Arete with Man Overboard and Anchors Away on the large, white quartzite block 80 ft. above the trail. Area is just right of the Little Amphitheater area (which is usually wet).

There are eight routes in this area ranging from 5.6-5.11, toprope and lead.

Getting There

Approach is 13 minutes from the Three Bears Gully. Turn to your left at the bottom of the gully.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Arete

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lloyd Would Have Liked It
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Man Overboard
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anchors Away
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lloyd Would Have Liked It 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Man Overboard 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anchors Away 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
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Rockbanned brett
Plattsburgh, Ny
Rockbanned brett   Plattsburgh, Ny
Pilot is pretty much the cats Meow. Excellent exposure, fun lines. something for everyone at this place. :) Carolinaclimbers.org has an excellent climbing guide for this area. I'd recommend downloading it before heading in. Oct 31, 2013
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
Big Arete is between the golden wall of 'Devil in the White House' and the very high wall near and below the actual parking lot. To see the namesake, you would have to make an effort to look directly overhead, where it looms like a ship's prow, lending the nautical theme for names for those Sport routes: 'Mutiny on the Bounty', 'Man Overboard', and 'Anchors Away' (which is not misspelled). The Kelley guide listed others on the main cliff, but none have anchors and are not climbed. The main three share one set of two cold shuts with a new ring, located atop 'Man Overboard' which is the most popular one. They can be reached directly from the very popular overlook, so top-roping is used. Note that Big Gully is closed to all entry, so the walk around via Jomeokee Trail (much shorter than via Three Bears Gully) is a hassle.

To the left is a short, broad buttress you must carefully walk around. Its flat top is accessed via a rough and damp chimney, which is also used to bypass 'Mutiny' to reach the belay base for the upper two main routes. The Kelley guide listed two routes on the buttress, though there is no clear separation, only more or less to right or left, which is also less or more difficulty. Both will lead on Trad gear, and there are two new sets of rim anchors with lower-off chains. Carrying rope and rigging up and down the chimney is not easy or safe.
. Mar 15, 2012

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