Elevation: 2,192 ft
GPS: 36.3402, -80.48078
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Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

South-facing quartzite cliffs with plenty of shade. Mostly toproping with bolts/rocks for anchors at the top (bring webbing/slings), but there is also sport/trad/mix available. Climbs vary from slab to overhanging with several roofs. Rock quality varies. Topropers be on the lookout for face bolt anchors that have been installed and use those whenever possible to minimize erosion.

Can get busy on the weekends, especially around Three Bears and Middle Walls, and very hot in the summer. Find the well-maintained trail in the SW corner of the parking lot and follow down through woods. Climbing area will be to your left with approach times from 2-10 minutes. Follow the stone trail down to Three Bears gully to access the base of the cliff. Staying on trail is critical to minimize the impact that 1.4 million visitors per year have on the park.

Climbers must register at the box in the parking lot for each vehicle in their party. The park asks that you avoid anchoring on trees and utilize bolts or rocks as anchors. All commercial, organized, or affiliated climbing groups of any size are required to have a special use permit in advance. The maximum group size allowed at Pilot is 14 people which includes guides, students, and spectators.

The old upper approach trail is closed and the Grindstone trail route is the new upper approach trail for the climbing area at Pilot now. More info here: https://www.ncparks.gov/pilot-mountain-state-park/home

Pilot Mountain Park Map.pdf

Getting There

Take I-40 to business I-40 in Winston Salem. From Winston Salem take Hwy. 52 north for about 20 minutes. Follow signs for Pilot Mountain State Park and follow road up to the top parking lot.

Guide Services

Guide Services that can show you the ropes in this location (and many more).

Pisgah Climbing School  www.pisgahclimbingschool.com

Rock Dimensions

Blue Ridge Mountain Guides,

Granite Arches

Fox Mountain Guideshttp://foxmountainguides.com/

136 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pilot Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 85
Grandpa's Belay
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 106
Crackin' Up
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Howdy Dude
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 186
Pole Dancing
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
Chicken Bone
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 113
Turkey Shoot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 207
Black Rain
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 112
Pump Street
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Smooth Sailing (aka Lloyd Would…
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 89
Hot Yoga
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
Erocktica
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 145
Devil in the White House
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 81
The Herculean Test
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 90
Overhang Hangover
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 71
Any Major Dude
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grandpa's Belay 07. Little Amphitheater
 85
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Crackin' Up 08. Amphitheater
 106
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Howdy Dude 06. Three Bears
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Pole Dancing 08. Amphitheater
 186
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chicken Bone 14. Parking Lot
 171
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, TR
Turkey Shoot 08. Amphitheater
 113
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Rain 09. Black Rain Wall
 207
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pump Street 08. Amphitheater
 112
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Smooth Sailing (aka Lloyd W… 12. Big Arete
 75
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot Yoga 07. Little Amphitheater
 89
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Erocktica 07. Little Amphitheater
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Devil in the White House 10. Devil in the Whit…
 145
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Herculean Test 10. Devil in the Whit…
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Overhang Hangover 08. Amphitheater
 90
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Any Major Dude 06. Three Bears
 71
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Pilot Mountain »

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