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Elevation: 2,192 ft 668 m
GPS: 36.3402, -80.48078
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

South-facing quartzite cliffs with plenty of shade. Mostly toproping with bolts/rocks for anchors at the top (bring webbing/slings), but there is also sport/trad/mix available. Climbs vary from slab to overhanging with several roofs. Rock quality varies. Topropers be on the lookout for face bolt anchors that have been installed and use those whenever possible to minimize erosion.

Can get busy on the weekends, especially around Three Bears and Middle Walls, and very hot in the summer. Find the well-maintained trail in the SW corner of the parking lot and follow down through woods. Climbing area will be to your left with approach times from 2-10 minutes. Follow the stone trail down to Three Bears gully to access the base of the cliff. Staying on trail is critical to minimize the impact that 1.4 million visitors per year have on the park.

Climbers must register at the box in the parking lot for each vehicle in their party. The park asks that you avoid anchoring on trees and utilize bolts or rocks as anchors. All commercial, organized, or affiliated climbing groups of any size are required to have a special use permit in advance. The maximum group size allowed at Pilot is 14 people which includes guides, students, and spectators.

The old upper approach trail is closed and the Grindstone trail route is the new upper approach trail for the climbing area at Pilot now. More info here: https://www.ncparks.gov/pilot-mountain-state-park/home

Pilot Mountain Park Map.pdf

Getting There Suggest change

Take I-40 to business I-40 in Winston Salem. From Winston Salem take Hwy. 52 north for about 20 minutes. Follow signs for Pilot Mountain State Park and follow road up to the top parking lot.

Guide Services

Suggest change

Guide Services that can show you the ropes in this location (and many more).

Pisgah Climbing School  www.pisgahclimbingschool.com

Rock Dimensions

Blue Ridge Mountain Guides,

Granite Arches

Fox Mountain Guideshttp://foxmountainguides.com/

139 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pilot Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pilot Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 122
Crackin' Up
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 216
Pole Dancing
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 196
Chicken Bone
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 124
Turkey Shoot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 225
Black Rain
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 130
Pump Street
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 120
Hot Yoga
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Erocktica
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 171
Devil in the White House
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 90
The Herculean Test
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 102
Overhang Hangover
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Any Major Dude
Sport, TR
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 52
Mr. Henar
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 44
Blind Prophet
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 19
Black and Blue Velvet
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crackin' Up 08. Amphitheater
 122
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pole Dancing 08. Amphitheater
 216
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chicken Bone 14. Parking Lot
 196
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, TR
Turkey Shoot 08. Amphitheater
 124
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Rain 09. Black Rain Wall
 225
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pump Street 08. Amphitheater
 130
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot Yoga 07. Little Amphitheater
 120
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Erocktica 07. Little Amphitheater
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Devil in the White House 10. Devil in the Whit…
 171
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Herculean Test 10. Devil in the Whit…
 90
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Overhang Hangover 08. Amphitheater
 102
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Any Major Dude 06. Three Bears
 76
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Mr. Henar 08. Amphitheater
 52
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Blind Prophet 08. Amphitheater
 44
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Black and Blue Velvet 08. Amphitheater
 19
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pilot Mountain »

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