Elevation: 2,192 ft
GPS: 36.34, -80.481 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 281,929 total · 1,815/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 8, 2007 with improvements by Blue Ridge Mountain Guides and 2 others
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

South-facing quartzite cliffs with plenty of shade. Mostly toproping with bolts/rocks for anchors at the top (bring webbing/slings), but there is also sport/trad/mix available. Climbs vary from slab to overhanging with several roofs. Rock quality varies.

Can get busy on the weekends, especially around Three Bears and Middle Walls, and hot in the summer. Find the well-maintained trail in the SW corner of the parking lot and follow down through woods. Climbing area will be to your left with approach times from 2-10 minutes. Rappel down from the top or follow trail down to Three Bears gully (climber approved) to access the base of the cliff.

Climbers must register at the box in the parking lot for each vehicle in their party. The park asks that you avoid anchoring on trees and utilize bolts or rocks as anchors. All commercial, organized, or affiliated climbing groups of any size are required to have a special use permit in advance. The maximum group size allowed at Pilot is 14 people which includes guides, students, and spectators.

The old upper approach trail is closed and the Grindstone trail route is the new upper approach trail for the climbing area at Pilot now. More info here: https://www.ncparks.gov/pilot-mountain-state-park/home

Pilot Mountain Park Map.pdf

Getting There

Take I-40 to business I-40 in Winston Salem. From Winston Salem take Hwy. 52 north for about 20 minutes. Follow signs for Pilot Mountain State Park and follow road up to the top parking lot.

Guide Services

Guide Services that can show you the ropes in this location (and many more).

Rock Dimensions

Blue Ridge Mountain Guides,

Granite Arches

Fox Mountain Guideshttp://foxmountainguides.com/

101 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pilot Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pilot Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 67
Grandpa's Belay
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Crackin' Up
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 98
Mild Mannered Secretary
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
Howdy Dude
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 123
Pole Dancing
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 121
Chicken Bone
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Turkey Shoot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 164
Black Rain
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Pump Street
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 66
Mama Bear
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 61
Erocktica
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 106
Devil in the White House
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
The Herculean Test
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 66
Overhang Hangover
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 51
Any Major Dude
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grandpa's Belay 07. Little Amphitheater
 67
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Crackin' Up 08. Amphitheater
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mild Mannered Secretary 08. Amphitheater
 98
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Howdy Dude 06. Three Bears
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Pole Dancing 08. Amphitheater
 123
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chicken Bone 13. Parking Lot
 121
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, TR
Turkey Shoot 08. Amphitheater
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Rain 09. Black Rain Wall
 164
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pump Street 08. Amphitheater
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mama Bear 06. Three Bears
 66
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b TR
Erocktica 07. Little Amphitheater
 61
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Devil in the White House 10. Devil in the Whit…
 106
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Herculean Test 10. Devil in the Whit…
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Overhang Hangover 08. Amphitheater
 66
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Any Major Dude 06. Three Bears
 51
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Pilot Mountain »

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