Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,818 total · 36/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

Climb the positive crack in the corner up and to the right. The climb ends at bolted anchors beneath the large roof. A good beginner lead.

Location

A right-facing corner on the left side of the center wall of the Amphitheater.

Protection

standard rack, bolts w/rings at the top

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
Climbed this route, spectactular for 5.7! Gear from #.5 - #3 BD
No doubt a must do at Pilot Mt Aug 30, 2010
George Heib
  5.7
George Heib  
  5.7
by far the best trad line at Pilot. Can get wet up top but it protects very well. Go all the way up to the roof try to fight the urge to traverse on the slab to the bolted anchors if you are a 5.7 leader. Last placement before the traverse can be a #3 or #4, but the don't place well in the wall. Other than that use your imagination anything from .75 to #3 will do. Also some good nut placements. Sep 30, 2010
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
The three photos show water running down the center of the face. True, lasting for some days after enough rain to soak through the ground to the level below the big roofs. Which part of the face will be wet and stay wet longest varies; but 'Crackin' Up' is not part of the leaking. It is almost always dry. However, the ledge just below the 'Turkey Shoot' rings will hold water for a lot longer than the wall may be wet. George says climb above that level; but if the ledge is wet, traversing below it will keep you more dry. Tip: take a small hand towel.

Kelley's rating was 5.8 for leading. As George says, the climb itself is more like 5.7, with as much lie-back and undercling on the massive flake as you like, or face climbing.

LL Feb 12, 2011
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
A pretty mellow lead, but fun. Good stances for rest, clean falls, and great pro make this a good first trad lead. Nov 29, 2011
This is a fun climb, and now the traverse at the top isn't necessary. Someone has added a set of bolts at the top now with rap rings. There is also a newly bolted sport climb to the right of it, just left of Turkey Shoot(5.8) Mar 5, 2015