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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,434 total · 35/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb the positive crack in the corner up and to the right. The climb ends at bolted anchors beneath the large roof. A good beginner lead.

Location [Suggest Change]

A right-facing corner on the left side of the center wall of the Amphitheater.

Protection [Suggest Change]

standard rack, bolts w/rings at the top

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
Climbed this route, spectactular for 5.7! Gear from #.5 - #3 BD
No doubt a must do at Pilot Mt Aug 30, 2010
George Heib
  5.7
George Heib  
  5.7
by far the best trad line at Pilot. Can get wet up top but it protects very well. Go all the way up to the roof try to fight the urge to traverse on the slab to the bolted anchors if you are a 5.7 leader. Last placement before the traverse can be a #3 or #4, but the don't place well in the wall. Other than that use your imagination anything from .75 to #3 will do. Also some good nut placements. Sep 30, 2010
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
The three photos show water running down the center of the face. True, lasting for some days after enough rain to soak through the ground to the level below the big roofs. Which part of the face will be wet and stay wet longest varies; but 'Crackin' Up' is not part of the leaking. It is almost always dry. However, the ledge just below the 'Turkey Shoot' rings will hold water for a lot longer than the wall may be wet. George says climb above that level; but if the ledge is wet, traversing below it will keep you more dry. Tip: take a small hand towel.

Kelley's rating was 5.8 for leading. As George says, the climb itself is more like 5.7, with as much lie-back and undercling on the massive flake as you like, or face climbing.

LL Feb 12, 2011
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
A pretty mellow lead, but fun. Good stances for rest, clean falls, and great pro make this a good first trad lead. Nov 29, 2011
This is a fun climb, and now the traverse at the top isn't necessary. Someone has added a set of bolts at the top now with rap rings. There is also a newly bolted sport climb to the right of it, just left of Turkey Shoot(5.8) Mar 5, 2015

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