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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,356 total · 46/month
Shared By: Jeff Dillon on Dec 15, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Fun route with face and roof climbing.

Location

Located on the left wall of the amphitheater.

Protection

2 pitons and 4 bolts to the first set of anchors. 1 more bolt to the second set of anchors. Optional .5 camalot.

Photos

sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Cruiser face climbing leads to a nice rest. Fun undercling moves to get under the roof, where a mean but well-protected crux awaits you. Everyone seems to do it a different way. Run out over easy ground above the crux. Nov 14, 2011
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.11b
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.11b
The key foot hold for some people's beta on this route, the one that protuded from the V shaped notch under the roof to the left, was broken a few months ago.

I was working the route on Sunday and tried smearing where the hold used to be. That beta will still go but after repeated appempts the foot hold kept crumbling under my foot. I reached out and with my hand broke off another part of the foot hold that was loose.

Now there is a hook type foot hold under the roof similar to the foot hold that used to be there. I'm not sure how much longer that foot will last though. Apr 30, 2012
Just climbed this route about a week ago and got stung by a bunch of wasps. My friend made it up without getting stung. I went after him and right before the second blot there was a little wasps hive. My knee bumped it and they swarmed me. I would avoid this route for a little while. Aug 24, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Upper extension is not that bad and pretty juggy if you find the holds. Crux was between the bolt and anchor and definitely not as hard as the main OHHO crux although you may want to take a breather to get your strength back/heart rate down before you jump right on it. I recommend another piece of gear for just after the anchor starting the extension (options range from something small up to a red camalot) as falling off before clipping the extension bolt would send you hurtling back into the corner. If you don't find a jug (or at least a good finger bucket) keep searching. Cool bonus exposure and a short bit of climbing. Nov 27, 2017

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