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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,101 total, 16/month
Shared By: Javier L on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Like it's neighbors the first bolts are a little high and stretched out but this is a pretty safe lead. A simple face climb leads you past 4 bolts to a good rest. The 4th bolt can seam far but clip it from above and you'll have a solid right hand hold to clip from. Look up at the daunting roof and plan your attack for the roof crux. 2 bolts protect you through the crux on the way to he anchors. Extend the 6th draw long to reduce drag

Best if followed to get your draws back.

Location

Right of Mild Mannered Secretary and left of Pump Street

Protection

7 Quickdraws + 2 anchors. 4 ft Slings for the anchor will probably help reduce drag for the second.

Photos

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Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
This route is on the Middle Wall of the Amphitheater, the only one that goes through the roof, at a right-angle notch where there are ring anchors at a small ledge. The rope will go over the sharp edge of the ledge, so either take regular top-rope rigging for that or maybe pre-rig. Starting a rappel is as usual very clumsy and unusually difficult, not recommended.

There are three bolts on the face, the first the lowest on that wall, to a small triangular overhang with a fourth on the sloped face above, that shorter people will find difficult to reach up to. Common line is to the right over some other small overhangs. It is the fifth bolt that is way wide to the left of a good rest stance, beyond a vertical crack where some put a cam. It has a black sling through the hanger, and is one of the worst at Pilot.

Your next target is the skirt at the beginning of the roof, with a reach right to the sixth bolt. The crux is the strenuous pull and hook and throw to a flat ledge at a small notch. Expect a two- or even one-hand hang. Reaching right to the last bolt is also strenous, with another big mount to the top ledge.

From the severe overhang, retrieving gear on rappel will be a trial too. See more at ClimbPilotNC.us/ClimbingAre…
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Jun 25, 2012