Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,487 total · 19/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 5, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the farthest right "slab" route in the ampitheatre. Climb the dark rock past 3 fairly well spaced bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. This is a good route, and is pretty safe if supplement the bolts with gear.

Location

The farthest right slab route.

Protection

3 Bolts and gear

Photos

jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Really? A trad route? This is NC sport climbing! With runouts sketchy clips this ain't no Muir Valley (New school bolting at a privately owned, but great group of cliffs at the Red River Gorge).

I put this route off for a long time because of the runouts, but finally got on it and didn't think it was bad at all. Mar 25, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
Climbed this route Aug 29th, set Orange #2 Metolius before 1st bolt.But no other gear to be found? The route is slightly heady, but not technically challenging. The clips are on good feet, the moves are extremely good.

No doubt a great route! Aug 30, 2010
George Heib
  5.9 R
George Heib  
  5.9 R
Interesting NC sport route with the typical high first bolt and a runout near the top. It is a solid route with a little wandering, but worth the head game. I agree with the other post, you don't need gear on this one, but the falls are a little less than safe. It shouldn't be your first 5.9 lead go hit up Black Rain for that one. Sep 30, 2010
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
This route does wander, as commented, to be 5.9 instead of 5.10 as is 'Pump Street' on the left side of that part of Middle Amphitheater. The rings make the perfect hang for that other route, which gets compliments for TR after someone has led 'Patty'. The Kelley guide had 'Patty' as 5.9R for being run-out, and for that it is indeed a poor choice for first 5.9 lead. A well-schooled Trad climber will put in at least two more pieces after the first low horizontal, so that this could be a Trad lead too. IF it will ever get dry!

. May 3, 2011
Sarah Wolfe
Eugene, OR
Sarah Wolfe   Eugene, OR
This is a 5.9R sport route, could be called mixed as there are a couple of gear placements in the runout parts. Not trad since there are at least 3 bolts on the line. Mar 4, 2012
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.9
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.9
I think a lot of folks posting comments here don't really understand the difference between "sport" and "trad". Technically this one is mixed, but that isn't an option on this site.

The route went in ground up, using supplemental gear, both of which make it "trad", if you will.

For example: just 'cause the routes at nearby stone are bolted too, that certainly doesn't make them sport routes.. Feb 20, 2013
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
Nathan, I think a lot of folks posting comments don't know what "ground up" means. Hell, I bet if you asked everyone at Pilot on any given Saturday, less than 10% would know what ground up meant. Mar 25, 2013