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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,226 total, 19/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 5, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is the farthest right "slab" route in the ampitheatre. Climb the dark rock past 3 fairly well spaced bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. This is a good route, and is pretty safe if supplement the bolts with gear.

Location

The farthest right slab route.

Protection

3 Bolts and gear

Photos

Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
Nathan, I think a lot of folks posting comments don't know what "ground up" means. Hell, I bet if you asked everyone at Pilot on any given Saturday, less than 10% would know what ground up meant. Mar 25, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
I think a lot of folks posting comments here don't really understand the difference between "sport" and "trad". Technically this one is mixed, but that isn't an option on this site.

The route went in ground up, using supplemental gear, both of which make it "trad", if you will.

For example: just 'cause the routes at nearby stone are bolted too, that certainly doesn't make them sport routes.. Feb 20, 2013
Sarah Wolfe
Eugene, OR
Sarah Wolfe   Eugene, OR
This is a 5.9R sport route, could be called mixed as there are a couple of gear placements in the runout parts. Not trad since there are at least 3 bolts on the line. Mar 4, 2012
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
This route does wander, as commented, to be 5.9 instead of 5.10 as is 'Pump Street' on the left side of that part of Middle Amphitheater. The rings make the perfect hang for that other route, which gets compliments for TR after someone has led 'Patty'. The Kelley guide had 'Patty' as 5.9R for being run-out, and for that it is indeed a poor choice for first 5.9 lead. A well-schooled Trad climber will put in at least two more pieces after the first low horizontal, so that this could be a Trad lead too. IF it will ever get dry!

. May 3, 2011
George Heib
  5.9 R
George Heib  
  5.9 R
Interesting NC sport route with the typical high first bolt and a runout near the top. It is a solid route with a little wandering, but worth the head game. I agree with the other post, you don't need gear on this one, but the falls are a little less than safe. It shouldn't be your first 5.9 lead go hit up Black Rain for that one. Sep 30, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
Climbed this route Aug 29th, set Orange #2 Metolius before 1st bolt.But no other gear to be found? The route is slightly heady, but not technically challenging. The clips are on good feet, the moves are extremely good.

No doubt a great route! Aug 30, 2010
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Really? A trad route? This is NC sport climbing! With runouts sketchy clips this ain't no Muir Valley (New school bolting at a privately owned, but great group of cliffs at the Red River Gorge).

I put this route off for a long time because of the runouts, but finally got on it and didn't think it was bad at all. Mar 25, 2010