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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,564 total, 31/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Climb Mr. Henar to the intermediate station.

Location

Left of crackin' up and right of Blind Prophet

Protection

5 bolts plus shuts

Photos

Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Not a new breed of crying... the new breed is people wanting to make routes more accessible to the masses with zero barrier to entry. Everything is not supposed to be easy and tamed down so that everyone can do it. Climbing is a process that we all go through and there should be routes that inspire people to get better. Your argument insinuates that all routes should have a middle anchor above the easier climbing; is this a new standard that we should put in place on every climb? Did you even think your argument through before presenting it? I Doubt it. Also, trad routes should never be retro-bolted except by FA or on consent of the FA and even then with prudence. Nov 1, 2015
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
The middle anchors are an abomination to rock climbing and should be removed. The chains dangling all over the place were bad enough but this is a new breed of retro bolting that has been cropping up at Pilot. Apr 5, 2015
Will Bradford
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Will Bradford   Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Ton of fun, crux in the middle just before the traverse. Probably my favorite 10 at pilot. Mar 3, 2016
zachj  
This new breed of crying about making climbs more accessible to a larger group of climbers is also an abomination. Rather than having one single route that a tiny fraction of climbers can do there are now two climbs, a 10c and a 12c. If we are being honest, this "purist" mindset that says trad routes should never be bolted and no one who climbs less than 5.12 should be allowed on specific walls is just selfish talk from people who don't want to see other people on "their" climbs or walls. You can still climb these routes as trad, you can still climb the 12c and just ignore the 10c anchors. Just stop crying about it.
Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to vocalize how many other climbers feel when they read these sorts of comments. Oct 31, 2015