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Routes in Amphitheater

Arms Control S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Blue Velvet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Blind Prophet S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Blind Prophet Lite S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Born to Crimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzzard's Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty Bingo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackin' Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Henar Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Flyin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mild Mannered Secretary S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Henar S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Overhang Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pole Dancing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pump Street S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Single Handed Sailor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surry County Ethics T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Syzygy T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turkey Shoot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,101 total, 46/month
Shared By: Bennett Harris on May 2, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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23 Opinions

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Description

This route wanders a bit and the bolt placement is questionable (i.e., ran out). Although it's a bit sketchy, it's a must do, as the iron cross crux will have you grinning with pain.

Location

This route is in between Blind Prophet and Crackin' Up. Start on the blunt arete.

Protection

bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

Mark Paulson
  5.12b PG13
Mark Paulson  
  5.12b PG13
One of the best lines at Pilot. Aug 20, 2013
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12a/b PG13
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12a/b PG13
A decent climb for sure. If the bottom was harder it would be much better. I found it to be easier than Blind Prophet. Great job on the extended draws, route felt very safe to me. Jul 3, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10. May 14, 2013
ABG
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
ABG   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
Should be get done more often. Clean falls on bomber bolts. Nothing else on this route needs to be changed.

Comment edited on 10/22/13:
This route has changed quite a bit in the last year. Bolts were removed but holes not filled in, one bolt was repositioned, and anchors were installed in the middle of the route. Still one of the better at Pilot but an interesting set of events. Aug 29, 2012
Dr. Rocktopolus
Chattanooga, TN
Dr. Rocktopolus   Chattanooga, TN
I Redpointed this route last weekend. I have heard a lot of bad things about this route. I am here to break all that hype and tell you this route is bad ass! It has a new set of anchors and amazing movment and climbing on it. A hard move at a small side pull under a roof leadds to a just near the bolt for the second chain. A long reach to a bucket will take you to some high footwork for a move that will open up your wingspan for sure. Foot work around the rope is key in that section and the falls are clean.

I think this is the best pitch at Pilot. Jul 23, 2012
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
The "iron cross crux" is still there, but for a new bolt replacing the old chain anchors. There are new ring anchors on the face above there, similar to the other routes on that wall. The sling is gone, presently replaced by Fixe chains the same length.

More will be done to make this highly visible route into a safer route. If you do try it, do take a "bail 'biner", because it is still the same "bold" route.
. Jul 4, 2012